After spending four fantastic months in Colombia’s second city from October to the end of January, I learned a lot. Here’s what I wish I knew about Medellin sooner:
- Reading addresses is easy
- Drivers don’t respect zebra crossings
- It has one of the best climates in the world.
- Avoid getting taxis at rush hour
- The metro is very comprehensive and safe
- Stay in Laureles
- Take advantage of menu del dias
- Avoid narco-traffic chat
- Paisa is a distinct identity.
- Get a collectivo to and from the airport
- Don’t slam doors
- Embrace the street food
- Say gracias (instead of no gracias)
- It’s easy to extend a tourist visa
- Tinto means coffee (not red wine)
Reading addresses is easy
A typical address will look like this: Calle 8 # 43A – 89.
The first number indicates the street the address is on, the second indicates the cross street, and the third number indicates, in metres, how far the address is from the cross-street. The example above shows the address is on Calle 8, the cross street is Carrera 43A, from which the destination is 89 metres away. It’s very precise.
Drivers don’t respect zebra crossings
Traffic rules are advisory rather than mandatory. Nowhere is this more dangerous than when you attempt to negotiate a zebra crossing (marked sidewalk). Most of the time drivers ignore your right of way: the oncoming car is more likely to speed up than slowdown.
You’ll also notice that drivers will pass red-lights if they ‘perceive’ that there is no other traffic, much like how a cyclist might treat traffic lights in western Europe. Caution advised.
It has one of the best climates in the world.
Medellin lives up to its moniker as the city of eternal spring (La Ciudad de la Eterna Primavera). It’s consistently warm without getting too hot or humid, averaging 22.5 degrees across the year. Watch out for the rainy season – October to December – when an umbrella becomes essential.
Another advantage of living in such a mountainous region is that you can choose your climate depending on your preference. Increase your altitude if looking for cooler climes (for example Santa Elena on the outskirts of Medellin) or Santa Fe De Antioquia for something warmer (the former capital).
Avoid getting taxis at rush hour
It’s called the hora pico (the peak hour), although it lasts more than an hour, extending from 5pm to 8pm. The hour between 6pm to 7pm is the worst, when the roads come to a standstill.
The traffic can be so bad that I would travel early to avoid it, preferring to spend the extra time in a cafe or bar, rather than sit in traffic. Another option is to take the metro, which despite being full of people at rush hour, doesn’t suffer from delays:
The metro is very comprehensive and safe
The metro covers most of the city. It’s clean, reliable and affordable. The locals are justifiably proud (Bogota, with worse traffic, doesn’t have a metro). A single ticket, which allows you to switch to other lines, costs just under 3,000 pesos. Best to get a loadable metro card (costs 10,000 pesos) at one of the stations.
Stay in Laureles
Most travellers stay in El Poblado. It’s where you’ll find most of the nightlife, back-packing hostels and a great selection of restaurants and cafes. However, if looking for a more authentic, relaxed and affordable experience better to go for Laureles. It’s probably safer than Poblado and also counts on excellent restaurants and cafes
If looking for a Spanish school, use Mr. Fox school in the heart of Laureles. The teachers are great, it’s affordable and the flexible scheduling gives you plenty of time to fit in other activities, such as remote working / tourism.
Take advantage of menu del dias
Traditionally lunch is the most important meal whereas dinner tends to be more of a snack. Eat like a local by availing of the affordable menu del dia at lunchtime.
The menu can be found in the majority of the restaurants, normally a board outside will advertise that day’s specials. The fare varies but typically you’ll get a soup, a main meal – often rice, salad, and meat – often accompanied with beans and plantain – usually for about 15,000 pesos. Some places will offer coffee and a small desert too.
My favourite place was Salud Pan in Laureles, which offers healthy and delicious food, with great vegetarian options.
Avoid narco-traffic chat
To its credit for the most part Medellín does not try to exploit its murky past in narco-traffic and paramilitarism, despite an interest among tourists. Images of Pablo Escobar are rare and narco tours are hard to find.
In general it’s a taboo subject (see my post on how Medellin deals with its murky past), with locals preferring to look to the future and concentrate on the positive aspects of the city. If wanting to engage positively with the subject, a tour of Comuna 13 and a visit to the Museo Casa de la Memoria are good suggestions.
Paisa is a distinct identity.
People from Medellin will often describe themselves as Paisa first before Colombian. Paisas are fiercely proud of their identity, which includes an attachment to their land, family and cuisine. The Paisa region encompases the departments of Antioquia (Medellin’s department), Caldas, Risaralda and Quindío.
Find out more about Colombian identity, including the Paisas, in my post about the history and origin of the people.
Get a collectivo to and from the airport
The collectivo to and from the airport is much cheaper than a taxi, costing 20,000 pesos as opposed to up to 100,000 pesos. It’s very safe and leaves regularly. On the way to the airport, the collectivo departs from near Exposiciones metro station and the San Diego Centro Comercial (mall). Buses also leave nearby for a cheaper cost (13,000 pesos).
At the airport, the collectivo departs right beside arrivals (simply ask if in doubt).
Don’t slam doors
This is an odd one but Colombians treat car doors very gently. My more assertive approach, which I’d employed all my life without comment, was perceived as aggressive and rude. Gently closing the door (or suavecito as one driver requested) is the way to go.
Embrace the street food
Empanadas, arepas, palitos de queso..the mouth waters. While the street food doesn’t have the renown of Peru’s or Mexico’s, it’s so rich and delicious. It’s economical and easy to find – every street will have stalls or holes in the walls, while most grocery shops will offer a selection. A perfect evening snack after you’ve filled up on a menu del dia at lunchtime.
Say gracias (instead of no gracias)
It’s inevitable that you will be approached by people trying to sell you all manner of things from lollypops (for some reason very popular) to full-day tours. This is especially the case if staying in a tourist spot such as El Poblado. At times it can get a little annoying. However the best response, assuming you’re not interested, is a simple “gracias” – firm but empathetic. Responding with “no gracias” is considered rude.
It’s easy to extend a tourist visa
Most tourist visas last for 90 days from the day of your arrival (marked in your passport). It’s easy to extend for another 90 days. It can be completed online and the cost is free. There’s a step by step guide provided by this blog. Best to do it about two weeks before your visa is due to expire.
Tinto means coffee (not red wine)
When you’re offered a tinto to accompany your breakfast arepa and eggs, it’s not the alcoholic variety. Instead it’s the Colombian term for coffee, usually the bland instant stuff that is most common (despite producing some of the world’s best coffee beans). See my post on visiting Colombia’s coffee region,
Do you have any further tips or questions? Post a comment below
2 replies on “What I wish I knew about Medellin”
Some good tips here. The one on zebra crossings applies in a lot of countries that I’ve visited.
I get told off for slamming car doors in Britain. I blame this on having grown up with various Volkswagen cars that required a slam for the door to shut properly.
Oh to be your age again Marcus!