The Tour du Mont Blanc is an exhilarating circuit around Western Europe’s highest peak that traverses three countries, 10 to 11 mountain passes, winding its way around seven charming valleys. Usually split into 11 stages (or days) and hiked anti-clockwise, the tour is 170km (about 105mi) in length and requires a cumulative climb (and descent) of about 10,000m (about 6mi). In July 2022 as a record-breaking heatwave baked Europe, two old friends and I completed the tour. Based on our experience, here are my tips for your first Tour du Mont Blanc:
Bring a map
Buy a lightweight map, ideally at a scale of 1:25,000 (each mm on map represents about 25 metres) or a reputable guidebook (Cicerone’s is recommended). A map provides invaluable insight as to what you’re facing and where you can find respite, information that can’t be replicated from word-of-mouth and blogs.
Pack lightly
Try to carry no more than 8kg in a 25lt to 35lt backpack (assuming you’re not camping). Be ruthless: you’ll curse extra weight as it’s simply not needed. Mags Nixon’s blog provides a sensible list that we loosely followed.
Start from Le Brevent.
Instead of the orthodox setting-off point from Les Houches, consider getting the cable-car up to Le Brevent (alt. 2525m) to begin the voyage. Your descent will start with inspiring views of Mont Blanc and its surrounding troupe of peaks, aiguilles and glaciers. It also means you’ll finish the tour with a suitably bracing climb, involving ladders and a steep clamber over a rocky lunar terrain. A cool beer then awaits you in “Le Panoramic”: no better way to toast your achievement.
Eat often
It sounds obvious but it’s especially important. Treat your body like a machine that constantly needs a top up of fuel. In general, little and often is better than a lot and rarely. Take the opportunity to stock up on fruit and energy bars in the towns, such as Les Contamines, Courmayeur and Champex.
Bring cash.
Quite a few refuges only accepted cash, for example Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme. Some refuges accept foreign currency, such as Swiss Francs instead of Euro in France – although the exchange rate won’t be favourable. Better to figure out in advance the refuge’s policy so you know how much you need to carry. I saw one lady pay for her stay with a cheque, which seemed ingenious.
Vegetarians beware
We found little effort was made for vegetarians. Sometimes the meat part was just replaced with a few wilted salad leaves, other times the meat part was simply excluded without a substitute. The better places might give you an omelette, but this tended not to be as filling as the meat option. Try to mitigate this by giving as much notice to the refuge of your dietary requirements – both when booking and on the day of your stay – and by bringing along extra snacks. Vegans would struggle…
Get to know the other hikers
Sharing stories while gleefully devouring dinner together each evening is one of the highlights. Your fellow travellers will be full of tips and insights and add a lot of colour to your journey. It’s great crossing paths again.
Start early
You can cover ground and tougher climbs while the conditions are most favourable and it will give you more time to enjoy the journey, provide opportunities for taking lots of breaks, photos and stopping by the quaint refuges.
Aim for a late afternoon arrival
This might be difficult depending on refuge availability but the ideal arrival time is between 3pm and 4pm. Too early and you risk getting bored – there isn’t a whole lot to do apart from take in the magnificent views – plus the staff won’t be able to check you in due to the lunch rush. Later and you won’t have time to unwind before dinner. Side note: we found good short-notice availability for refuges on the 2nd half of the route allowing us to re-work our itinerary.
Avoid the TMB insurance
The small print reveals it is a more limited version of usual travel insurance and doesn’t really help you if want to change your plans mid-tour. For instance, getting your money back for a refuge because of an injury requires a medical certification.
Stay in Hotel Col du Forclaz and Le Refuge de Pres
First established as an inn in 1830, Hotel Col du Forclaz is brimming with character and ambience. The historical hotel is like stepping back in time – a wonderful amalgamation of The Grand Budapest Hotel, Fawlty Towers with a hint of the Shining – frenetically run by larger-than-life Cedric and his team. It was also the only place that offered a third helping at dinner. De Pres is considerably more chill. A recently restored alpine chalet, it’s clean and smartly designed for the modern hiker, with bed-side lamps and plenty of USB points. Food is excellent too.
Choose Courmayeur for a rest day
If building in a rest day (we didn’t), Courmayeur in Italy is your best bet. We would have appreciated more time relaxing in the piazzas, shopping along Via Roma, savouring the Italian cuisine, and taking advantage of the spas. Plus, Italy will be cheaper than France, and especially Switzerland.
Do you have other tips for the Tour du Mont Blanc? Leave a comment below.
