Santa Fe de Antioquia is a captivating colonial town that makes a perfect day-trip from Medellin. It is the region’s oldest settlement, founded by Jorge Robledo in 1541 on the banks of the river Cauca, and was once the capital of Antioquia. It oozes history.
The history of Santa Fe de Antioquia
It’s said time stopped when the region’s capital shifted southward from Santa Fe to Medellin in 1826. Indeed the town centre looks much as it did in the 19th century. The town is characterised by narrow cobbled streets with single story white-washed houses, many of which front peaceful courtyards. Attractive carved woodwork adorns the doors and windows along with antioquian brickwork. There are historic churches and charming plazas.
The heart of the town is the Plaza Bolivia (formerly Plaza Mayor) with its impressive white cathedral. As I arrive in the later afternoon, it’s alive with activity despite the heat. With a considerably lower elevation (555m) to Medellin, Santa Fe can be hot and sticky.
The mainly Colombian tourists amble about and relax below the wooden balconies that surround the square, enjoying the piping vallenato music. I check into my hotel, Caseron del Parque, a mansion built in 1601 directly opposite the cathedral, where the Spanish governors used to stay.
Two blocks away, I stumble upon the Iglesia de Santa Barbara, an elegant brick baroque church topped with swirling scrolls. Its three arched wooden doors are wide open, no doubt to help cool down the worshipers. Built by the Jesuits in the 18th century, the poet Julio Vives Guerra called it the ‘grandmother of Antioquian churches’.
A further block away, the streets are empty, allowing you to fully appreciate the preserved colonial architecture tranquilly, transporting you back in time.
Jorge Robledo, the founder of Santa Fe de Antioquia
Robledo was a Spanish conquistador that made his mark in Antioquia. Born of noble origin in Spain, he played a role in the conquest of modern day Guatemala and Peru as well as joining the hunt for the elusive El Dorado. In addition to establishing Santa Fe in 1541, Robledo was involved in the founding of Cali and Popayan, where he was later made mayor. See my post on the history and origin of modern day Colombia to find out more.
His end was not so glorious. He was sentenced to beheading by fellow conquistador, Sebastian de Belalcazar, following a dispute over control of the conquered territories. Yet, Robledo is still celebrated in the town: his statue, atop a plint buttressed by a two statuses – one representing a spanish-american woman and the other an indigenous woman – lies in Parque de La Chinca, itself named after the Virgin of Chiquinquirá, patron saint of Colombia.
Robledo gives his name to the town’s best hotel, Mariscal Robledo, an attractive colonial style building also off Parque de la Chinca. The spacious rooms include antiques.
The Puente de Occidente
During the 19th century, Medellin and many parts of Antioquia were isolated and cut off from the sea by the Cauca river, limiting the opportunities to trade. The state government offered generous concessions in order to improve the infrastructure. One such result was the construction of the Puente de Occidente, originally the longest suspension bridge in the Americas when it was completed in 1895.
The local engineer in charge – Jose Maria Villa – earned his stripes as part of the team that designed the Brooklyn Bridge, which employed a similar system. In 1978 the bridge was declared a national monument. It’s a 45 minute, mainly uninteresting, walk from town so you’re better off paying for a 30,000 peso round trip. The driver will wait as you walk across.
Juan del Corral, the dictator of Antioquia
Santa Fe de Antioquia has a number of museums. Its best is the Museo Juan del Corral, a preserved colonial mansion on Calle de la Amargura. It’s a well curated collection of objects that show the history of the towns and region from the pre-colonial period up to and beyond Colombia’s independence. The house across the street was the home of the museum’s namesake Juan del Corral, a local hero.
Juan del Corral is considered a Colombian patriot and was an important figure in the nation’s push for independence.
At the turn of the 19th century, discontent at Spanish rule grew stronger, particularly relating to new taxes. When Napoleon installed his own brother as the new Spanish king in 1808, many of the colonies refused to recognise the new ruler. As if like dominoes, Colombian regions declared their independence.
After an uprising in Bogota in 1810, del Corral was appointed as the Antioquia’s representative for a newly established autonomous body to replace Spanish rule. In 1813, when Antioquia feared an invasion from the Spanish, he was named the dictator of the free state of Antioquia to prepare the region’s defence. In the same year, del Corral proclaimed the declaration of independence to consolidate the state’s rupture from Spain:
That the State of Antioquia ignores Fernando VII as its king and any other authority that does not emanate directly from the People, or its Representatives, completely breaking the political union of dependency with the Metropolis and remaining forever separated from the Crown and Government of Spain
One of his most important contributions was his proposal of the liberation of children of slaves, which was passed by the Antioquian legislature two weeks after his death in 1814, aged 35.
The Fiesta de Los Diablitos
Unfortunately I was about a week too late for the town’s most popular festival, the Fiesta de los Diablitos (the party of the little devils). It occurs during the last week of each year, a tradition dating back to 1653 when the landowners wanted to give the slaves a day of rest. The slaves would dress up as Spaniards with colourful costumes, make-up and extravagant hair-styles (unfortunately I assume the devils refers to the slaves rather than the Spanish landowners).
The celebration continues today and it includes musical performances, dances, parades and a beauty contest (see my post on the origin of Miss Universe). The participants still dress up wearing clay masks that have been hand-painted by local artists.
How to get there
There are buses every hour from Medellin, departing from the Terminal del Norte. The journey lasts about an hour and a half and costs 14,000 pesos.
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