El Carmen, Valencia’s oldest quarter. Traditional yet bohemian. A medieval labyrinth where ambling tourists coincide with a proud local community. Amid the decaying facades and winding streets, striking and colourful street art bursts out. Getting lost can be part of the fun. Here’s an introduction to the neighbourhood’s engaging street art.
The history of El Carmen’s street art
Today’s street art was born out of a great tragedy. In 1957 the river Turia burst its banks and a voracious flood engulfed Valencia, swallowing up whole neighbourhoods in an event known as the Gran Riada de Valencia. Over 80 people died, with extensive damage to streets and properties.
With its proximity to the river, the historical barrio of El Carmen was gutted. Whole swathes of the neighbourhood became uninhabitable. Buildings were abandoned. Crime and vice filled the vacuum.
In time, artists struggling to establish themselves spotted an opportunity. Cheap rent along with deserted buildings meant an endless supply of canvasses right on their doorway with a captive audience. The authorities turned a blind-eye, knowing the art couldn’t make the neighbourhood any worse. Colour came to deprived El Carmen. Renewal. A place transformed.
The best streets and time to appreciate the art
Today some of the best streets to explore are Carrer de Baix and the connecting Carrer de Dalt where the same piece flows from one street to the next; Carrera de na Jordana; Guillem de Castro; Placa del Carme; and Carrer de Balme where the empty lots and facades allow enormous murals.
The ideal time is from 6pm to 7pm when the heat has subsided and the majority of shop fronts are still shuttered, maximising the exhibits on show.
Take lots of photos. Artwork can be disappear or be defaced over night. The streets are ever changing and dynamic exhibitions. The fleeting nature of the murals means that the art stays current and is often politically engaging.
Learn more
A street tour run by Valencia Street Tour, which provides the history of the street art in the neighbourhood and the specific artists and their work, is a great way to spend an evening. Each tour is unique as the ephemeral nature of street art means that the streetscape will change daily.
Looking for more things to see and do in Valencia, see my post on alternative activities.
2 replies on “The arresting street art of El Carmen, Valencia”
[…] bohemian neighbourhood is famous for its striking street art [see my longer post]. Learn all about the history of the neighbourhood and its most famous artists & artwork on an […]
Very much enjoyed Marcus, looking forward to further blogs.