Armenia, the capital of Quindio, is a perfect base to explore Colombia’s coffee region. Count on top-class coffee shops, traditional coffee towns, stunning hikes amid epic palm trees, iconic jeeps to ferry you around, and an up and coming city growing in confidence. Here are my tips on what to do in Armenia, Colombia.
Admire the Museo de Oro’s collection
The Museo or Oro (or Quimbaya Museum) presents a large collection of pre-colombian crafts, including almost 400 gold objects, mainly from the Quimbaya civilization. Some of the most valuable objects are the gold poporas, devices used for chewing coca, an act considered spiritual by the Quimbaya people. The museum is housed in a red-brick building, accompanied by a enchanting botanic garden, designed by Rogelio Salmona, the renowned Colombian architect.
Learn more about the history and origin of the Colombian people here.
Potter around historical Salento
Founded in 1850, it is one of the oldest towns in Quindio. As one of Colombia’s most iconic colonial towns, tourists are enticed by the quaint streets, the paisa architecture and its tranquil setting amid green mountains and the unforgettable Valle de Cocora. A trip is not complete without pottering around Calle Real (carrera 6), an evocative and colourful street packed with charming and high end local craft shops. The end of the road leads up the Alto de La Cruz, a hill topped with a cross, which offers great views.
Regular colectivos set off from the transport terminal in the South West of the city will get you to Salento for about $5,000 COP.
Hike in the Valle de Cocora
The Valle de Cocora is one of the most striking landscapes in Colombia. A bucolic valley surrounded by imposing peaks, it’s most famous for the iconic wax palms (or palma de cera), the largest palms in the world that reach up to 60 metres tall. The misty conditions amid the spindly trees, give an other-worldly feel to the glen. The Valle de Cocora loop hike is the best way to appreciate the valley, stopping midway for refreshments at the humming-bird (colibri) retreat to appreciate the inimitable birds amid the tranquillity. Willys (WW2 style jeeps) go to and fro Salento; cost is about $4000 for the round-trip. See next tip.
Ride in one of the Willys
A classic world war 2 jeep, Willys are one of the emblematic symbols of the Zona Cafetera. At first I couldn’t resist a chuckle at the name (willy is an informal name for a penis in British English), they are an important form of transportation in the region, ferrying everything from passengers, livestock, fruit, and of course coffee. The jeeps were army surplus models that first arrived in the area from the United States in 1950. In order to sell the vehicles to local farmers, a sales show ventured from town to town, showing off the jeep’s practicality, including driving up and down stairs and traversing obstacle courses set up in the plazas. The locals were hooked.
Appreciate colourful Filandia
Filandia is a traditional coffee town with well-preserved colonial architecture that is every bit as charming as its more famous neighbour, Salento, but not nearly as jammed with tourists. Go to the Colina Iluminada just outside town to take in the spectacular views, which include three different Colombian departments on a clear day. A colectivo from the transport terminal in Armenia will drop you off in the centre of town within about 40 minutes.
Savour the coffees shops
Colombia traditionally has exported its best coffee, with the dregs left to the locals – this is starting to change. Armenia boasts a suite of top quality coffee shops that showcase the excellent coffee from the region. Ones to try are Cafe Quindio, Del Toro Cafe, Azahar Coffee – all with their own roasts. The passionate and knowledgeable staff are very happy to explain the process behind their own coffee.
Speaking of gastronomy, a shoutout to Anonima – a modern and welcoming restaurant that makes use of top-quality Colombian produce to re-interpret traditional dishes. Some of the best food I’ve tried in Colombia.
How to get there
The Aeropuerto Internacional El Eden is 15km southwest of Armenia town-centre and has connections to Bogota, Medellin and Panama city. Taxis to and from the airport cost about $35,000.
The bus transport terminal serves Bogota (8 hours), Medellin (6 hours) and Cali (3.5 hours). It also has minibusesses to Pereira and Manizales.