Tag: Valencia

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Barcelona Spain

“Tourists go home”, Barcelona’s problem with tourism

"Tourists, go home, you are not welcome", anti-tourist graffiti Gracia, Barcelona
"Tourists, go home, you are not welcome", anti-tourist graffiti in Gracia, Barcelona

Marcus

Tourists go home

Seeing the first graffiti was a novelty. A rush of intrigue and levity. A brief distraction to the mundane. A gentle act of dissent. “Tourists go home”, the blue scrawl boldly proclaimed.

Very soon we saw more. More and more. Every block, corner and wall seemed to be inscribed with the message. A coordinated and planned act of defiance.

A sinking sense of unease built. “What the f*ck are we doing here”, I thought.

"Tourists, go home, you are not welcome", anti-tourist graffiti Gracia, Barcelona
“Tourists, go home, you are not welcome”, anti-tourist graffiti in Gracia, Barcelona

This was my first experience of Gracia, the traditionally working class area in Barcelona. At the forefront of the debate: has tourism gone too far?

Barcelona as a tourist destination

Barcelona hasn’t always been such an emblematic tourist destination. The 1992 Olympic triggered urban regeneration and put the city in the consciousness of travellers. Given Barcelona’s endowment of sun, history and a rich catalan culture as well as a concerted push from the local government, the city was ready to take off.

Prior to the pandemic, there were approximately 32 million annual visitors to the city, in 1992 the figure was 1.7 million. The permanent population within the city limits is 1.6 million, giving a ratio of about 19 visitors to permanent residents.

This contrasts with London that has a population of about 9 million and welcomed 22 million international visitors in 2019.

It’s not simply the bare numbers. Half of the 32 million are day-trippers, of which a large chunk are cruise passengers. As a result many of the tourists congregate in the most popular areas, such as Las Ramblas, Park Guell and La Sagrada, determined to see the iconic sights in their short-time. This leads to extreme congestion in certain spots and means that the vast sums spent by tourists are concentrated in a limited number of tourist cafes and gift-shops, with little left over for other parts of the city.

Quoted in the Guardian, Marti Cuso, a resident in the Gothic Quarter, the city’s busiest tourist area bemoaned, 

“My barrio is so saturated with tourists it’s impossible to meet someone in the street or for children to play or even to get a good night’s sleep,”

tourism kills the city, Gracia Barcelona
“Tourism kills the city”, street art in Gracia near Park Guell

A consultation carried out in 2015 by the local government pointed to various issues with overtourism, including anti-social behaviour, overcrowding and a loss of identity.

Tourism brings enormous revenue to the city and accounts for a significant part of the economy, but as with many economic issues society grapples with today, it’s not just the size of the pie – it’s how you share it. The consultation highlighted ‘poor redistribution of the wealth generated and poor quality jobs”.

Tourists go home, carteristas welcome - gracia barcelona
“Tourists go home, carteristas welcome” – graffiti in Gracia Barcelona. Carteristas translates as ‘pickpockets’

A salutory encounter in Valencia

The ethics of tourism and its effects on local communities have particularly interested me since first moving to Valencia. An ever growing ex-pat community, drawn mainly from Northern Europe, have decamped to the mediterranean city, taking advantage of looser working remote rules since the pandemic and the city’s attractive climate, cost of living and cultural offerings.

One sunny saturday afternoon I was in St. Patrick’s, Valencia’s best Irish pub, and had brought along a friend (and also my Spanish teacher), Pedro, who, like me, had recently moved to the city – but instead of coming from London, he had moved from Cadiz in Andalucia. Whereas I was finding the cost of living cheap, to Pedro, Valencia was more expensive. [Before you judge me too quickly, I found myself in a Irish pub as I had wanted to watch an Irish rugby match and Pedro wanted to experience a raucous Irish pub atmosphere.]

Very soon we started talking with another Irishman, Paul, 30, from the Northside of Dublin. Paul had decided to move to Valencia as even with a good job the cost of living in Dublin was not sustainable. Why, he thought, should I put up with a non-existent life where nearly all his earnings were swallowed up by rent, when I could move with my Irish salary and live comfortably in a sunny and culturally rich city. No one disagreed.

Later that evening Pedro revealed to me that he was thinking of moving back home to live with his parents in Andalucia. Despite his best efforts, he couldn’t make his teacher wage stack up against the rising cost of living. A box room without daylight was all he could afford at that point.

One month later, Pedro was back in Cadiz and Paul was still enjoying life in Valencia. The linked nature of Europe’s housing markets had become visibily apparent, bonded by the freedom of remote working. Dublin’s rental crisis (as well as other cities’) could spill into Valencia.

Back to Barcelona

Back to Barcelona, and as we ventured further into Gracia, there was no let-up in the grafiti. However, something new caught my eye: tourists gleefully posing by the inscriptions thumbs up and ironic smiles, excited by the potential for an edgy insta shot. In a kafkaesque turn, instead of putting people off, the grafiti had itself become an attraction.

It partly demonstrates the gordian knot with which tourist dependent locations grapple: how to extricate yourself from an addictive dependency on the supposedly easy cash of foreign tourists? Like an oil rich country that grows fat on its natural resources, leaving other industries lying fallow, an alternative path becomes less and less attractive. For many governments, the natural equilibrium is then to double down on the tourist industry instead of trying to resurrect or develop other parts of the economy. The alternative path involves too much short-term pain, making it politically unviable.

When it comes down to it, the grafiti is not so much aimed at the tourists but really the local authorities that encourage tourism, whether its through loose regulation or financial incentives, and the businesses that exploit these conditions.

The tragedy is that with a greater focus on tourism, the place loses its identity and the reasons that people came in the first place start to fade away. It simply becomes like everywhere else. In Barcelona, a new word has been coined: parquetematización – the act of becoming a theme park. Barcelona is reduced to an imitation of itself.

What can you do?

The website “Responsible Travel” gives some tips on how to visit Barcelona more sustainably, such as going outside of the summer months, going midweek, staying for longer than a day and, when doing so, booking registered accommodation. [Alas our weekend stay in the middle of August broke their first two rules…]. The excellent resource for responsible travel provides advice not just for Barcelona but across the world.

An alternative option of course is to eschew Barcelona in favour of another Spanish city: Valencia is an excellent option (notwithstanding the story relayed above) with its unique culture, mediterranean seaside location, rich cuisine and history – but significantly cheaper and without the hordes of tourists. My blog contains numerous guides to Valencia, including tips on alternative things to see and to do, and how best to settle in if moving there..

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Spain Valencia

Essential tips on how to settle in to Valencia quickly

reflection of cityscape in sea at night
Photo by Pixabay on Pexels.com

Marcus

You’ve left your exorbitantly priced flat, waved goodbye to grey skies and rain, and are ready to perfect your Spanish. Or indeed whatever it was that prompted you to upsticks and emigrate to Valencia, that almost perfect Spanish city. Rest assured you’ve chosen well.

Spain’s third city, it’s not so small you get bored nor too big you get swallowed up in cool anonymity. Beaches, parks, culture and almost permanent sunshine: the quality of life is excellent. Here are my essential tips on how to settle in to Valencia quickly (some of which I wish I’d known sooner):

Sign up for the bike sharing scheme

It’s called Valenbisi. An annual subscription costs 35 euro and the first 30 minutes of your ride are free. The stations are commonplace and there’s a good availability of bikes. You can sign up and book each ride online. The bikes may weigh a tonne and don’t go very fast – the mode of transport is something between walking and a standard cycle – but it’s still worth it to take advantage of Valencia’s incredible cycling infrastructure at any time of day or night.

Get a Spanish sim card

A pre-paid sim card (prepago in spanish) only cost me 10 euro for the month and the registration took less than 5 minutes. My deal entitled me to 50gb of data, 500 minutes (EU and UK included), and unlimited messages, with no further commitment required. Sign up only required showing my passport. My provider (no commission…) Vodafone has excellent coverage across the city. Sims are easily found in any 2nd hand / repair phone shop, which are very common in La Roqueta, near Valencia Nord.

Familiarise yourself with Spanish opening hours

Most restaurants are closed between roughly 4pm and 8pm, the dreaded dead-hours. The majority of supermarkets are closed on Sundays.  To this day I sometimes still get caught out, so accustomed to the the constant convenience of London where I spent the previous 8 years. It’s smart to check online before venturing to your chosen restaurant / shop and to build up a repertoire of places with more flexible hours. One example is the famous Horno de Los Borrachos (the Drunks’ Oven), located by the Central Mercat that serves greasy food 24/7.

Participate in the events run by Valencia Language Exchange

Valencia Language Exchange runs intercambios (language exchanges) 5 nights a week in different venues across the city, including a free salsa class on Wednesdays and free entry to Umbracle on Saturdays. As well as brushing up on your Spanish, it’s a great opportunity to meet other emigrants and locals – whether your goal is to make friends or get more insider tips. The company also organises weekend excursions and longer trips that are excellent for seeing wider region and beyond. Cafe Berlin in Rusafa also hosts popular language exchanges on Monday and Wednesday evenings.

Sign up to Idealista to find accommodation

Your first days will most likely be in an AirBnB. Let them be the only ones. Better to sign up to Idealista, Spain’s most popular property market platform, to find your longer term home. With far more choice and more affordable pricing, your bank balance will thank you. It’s also better that new demand funnels into the longer term letting market as opposed to the short-term airbnb market. This will reduce the incentive for landlords to switch their property to a short-term let (whether legally or not), which reduces supply and forces up rent for locals. 

Torres de Quart
The Torres de Quart, the old western entrance to the city. You can still see the cannon holes from the Napoleanic wars

Get a SUMA 10 card to get the most out of the public transport system

The city is very well connected, with the metro, tram and an extensive bus network. The system is well integrated: a fare is valid for 90 minutes, allowing you to switch onto to different lines or modes. The best idea is to get a SUMA 10, which is a 10 journey pass. It can be loaded up to 30 journeys at a time and used by up to 15 people.

Lines 3 and 5 take you to and from the airport, while all the tram lines take you to the beach. Be aware of night-time hours: much of the transport stops after 11pm (hence it’s handy to have signed up to Valenbisi as a fallback).

Use the Santander work / cafe for remote working

If looking for a remote working space, the Santander work cafes are a good bet, especially while getting yourself settled. Entry is free, there is generally space, the internet is good and there’s on site coffee shop (with discounts for Santander bank account holders). The hours are 9am to 7pm. There are three in Valencia, including one right beside the Ayuntamiento. The cafes are also found in the other main cities in Spain.

Be aware of bad paella

No harm in including some foodie advice. Valencia may be the home of paella but the quality still varies. Only eat at somewhere that serves it at lunch – paella for dinner is only for tourists. The longer the wait the better too – it means the paella is freshly prepared. It’s also a good sign if the minimum portion size is for two people, again showing that they’re not serving from pre-prepared batches.

My favourite place by the beach is La Pepica, Hemingway’s former haunt. The best paella in the region is generally found in El Palmar by Albufera. Speaking of tourist tips, see my post on the best alternative things to see and do in Valencia.

Categories
Spain Valencia

La Tomatina: a guide to Spain’s messiest festival

Tomatina
La Tomatina

Marcus

A kaleidoscope of red. A cacophony of shouts, screams and thrills. The dense embrace of the crowd. Squelch, squelch, squelch amid a river of puree. Flying red objects. A pelt to the head. It’s La Tomatina.

Sensory overload. Clean (and smug) locals cheer from their balconies, their buildings sensibly covered in protective mesh. A brief respite as we cling to the sides of the narrow street while a truck carrying tomatoes squeezes by. A fresh batch is unceremoniously dumped. The truck moves on and the war (or la guerra) recommences.

A fleeting snapshot on the streets of Buñol on the last Wednesday of August during the Tomatina Festival, including my top tips (scroll to the end).

The La Tomatina festival

Celebrated annually, Tomatina is a glorified tomato fight that takes place in Buñol, a small and otherwise unremarkable town in Valencia province. Locals, Spaniards and people from around the world congregate to enjoy the absurdity. This year – 2022 – 14,000 people participated along with more than 130 tonnes of tomatoes.

One of the most famous Spanish fiestas, it ranks alongside Las Fallas in Valencia, San Fermin in Pamplona, San Juan in Menorca and Semana Santa in Seville.

My arrival to Buñol

My former Spanish language school, Taronja, which does excursions very well, organised a day-trip to the festival from Valencia. Dark and early, we bussed it to Buñol. Bleary eyed, we emerged in the outskirts of the town where disused factories pockmarked the landscape.

The school threw a pre-party brunch to prepare us for the ‘war’. A traditional Valencian almuerzo to line the stomach – rich tomato sauce with sausages served in a bocadillo – washed down with beers, tinto de verano and shots of cazalla, a Valencian anise liquor. The idea of a tomato war was starting to appeal.

Soon it’s time to march down to the streets. Progress is halted by chaotic queues to redeem our digital passes for the necessary wristbands. After a two year hiatus, the organisers seemed to be out of practice. Eventually through the gates, there is a palpable sense of excitement. A shared sense of participating in something unique. We were ready to go.

It kicks off at 10am, when a Spanish jamon (see my post on choosing ham in Spain), is speared on top of a greased pole in the town square. The goal is to be first to climb up and retrieve it. Buoyed on my screams and shouts from the crowd, while being drenched by water, locals scramble up the pole. When the ham is finally dislodged (usually at about 11), it signals the start of the madness – and very soon the tomato trucks roll in.

The history of La Tomatina

No one really knows the exact origin of the festival. The received wisdom is that it started in late August 1945 when, during a parade, some youths fell into an argument. Taking advantage of a nearby fruit and veg market stall, they started throwing fruit and vegetables at each other. Enjoying it so much, the next year more young people engaged in a pre-planned quarrel, this time bringing their own tomatoes. Year and year more people took part, establishing a tradition. 

Others have claimed that the festival stemmed from the town’s dislike of Franco. (See my post on Spain’s five most influential wars, including the Spanish Civil War in which Franco came to power).

“This village was against Franco,” said Miguel Sierra Galaraza, an amateur historian from Bunol, to the Wall Street Journal in 1995. “Throwing tomatoes at the priest and mayor was a way to protest against authority.”

In the early 1950s, the festival was banned by Franco due to the absence of any religious link. The tomato fights continued, however, leading to arrests. Following a widely supported protest from the town involving a coffin containing tomatoes, Franco relented and the festival was finally made official in 1957. Since then the fiesta has grown and grown in popularity.

In 2013 the town eventually introduced an entry fee to control the ever-growing demand after attendance grew to what was estimated at over 50,000. The festival was cancelled in 2020 and 2021 due to the pandemic.

The tomato war (la guerra)

The tomato fight commences. Hesitant at first, it soon becomes second nature throwing tomatoes at complete strangers. Alliances are forged, and quickly betrayed. It’s loud, packed and exuberant. The body numbs to the constant pelts.

As more and more tomatoes arrive, we and the streets get redder and redder. Anarchic.

The battle lasts about an hour and by then it’s more than enough.

La Tomatina
Tomatoes are thrown from the truck

Completely soaked and splattered we amble down to the river to wash off, where some kind residents hose us down. Once somewhat clean (a day later I discovered remnants of tomato in my ear…), we make our way to the square where under a canopy, there are bars, dj and a dancefloor. Reggaeton is blaring. It all feels bizarre yet intoxicating.  

Meanwhile the authorities hose down the streets, sweeping away the tomato mush. Buñol is known for having some of the cleanest and sparkling streets in Spain. The acid of the tomatoes counteracts against the grime.

By the late afternoon, it’s time to return to Valencia. On the bus, I reflect on the festival. Fun and unique, there was something wonderful about people from around the world gathering in one spot to madly throw tomatoes at one another. A shared experience that captures the eccentricity and magic of Spain.

Would I recommend it? Absolutely. Would I do it again? Probably not.

My tips for La Tomatina

  1. Bring and wear goggles to avoid blackeyes and the sting of the tomato acid.
  2. Don’t wear clothes you value. An old t-shirt and swimming attire is perfect. Permanent staining is inevitable.
  3. Be so careful for thieves. I witnessed a number of people complaining of thefts. Don’t leave your valuables out of sight (and better still avoid bringing them).
  4. Bring cash: 20 to 30 euro. Keep some cash in your back pocket for getting drink & food before and after the war. The majority of sellers didn’t accept card.
  5. Be thrifty in what packages you sign up for. Many offer paella and drinks for a hefty extra cost, which you’ll find cheaply in the town. The most important thing to book is your ticket and transport to and from the town.
  6. Get the wristband in advance, ideally before arriving in Bunol. I spent nearly an hour queuing to get mine in the morning.
  7. Squeeze the tomatoes before throwing them. This will lesson the sting of the hit.
  8. Closed shoes are crucial. Flip-flops and sandals will get stuck in the messy tomato puree.

Next year’s festival (2023) will take place on Wednesday the 30th of August.

Categories
Spain Valencia

Alternative things to see and do in Valencia

beige and white concrete buildings photography
Photo by Iván Rivero on Pexels.com

Marcus

You’ve done it all. The guidebook has been thoroughly thumbed. The delectable Central Mercat, the grand Lonja, historic El Carmen, Turia Park and Calatrava’s Ciudad de las Artes y Ciencias. You’ve gorged on Paella and imbibed Agua de Valencia. All ticked off. Wondering what else? Don’t worry – you’ve only scratched the surface. Here are some alternative things to see and do in Valencia:

Visit the Julio Gonzalez collection

Julio Gonzalez (1876 – 1942) was one of the leading sculptors of the 20th century. A close friend of Picasso’s, Gonzalez’s estate bequeathed a large chunk of his collection – almost 400 pieces – to the IVAM, Valencia’s modern art museum. Gonzalez’s arresting metal works give a physical three dimensional form to cubist expression and portray the horrors of the Spanish civil war and the rise of fascism. The museum also hosts interesting and varied temporary exhibitions.

julio rodriguez valencia IVAM
One of Julio Rodriguez’s pieces in IVAM

Do a language exchange

A language exchange is an excellent opportunity to meet other travellers, expats and locals as well as brush up on your language skills in a relaxed environment. Cafe Berlin, a trendy bar in Ruzafa, hosts exchanges on Monday and Wednesdays while Valencia Language Exchange organises events almost every day of the week, including a free salsa class on Wednesdays.

Take a trip to Sagunto

Sagunto is a little-known gem of a town only 30 minutes north of Valencia. It boasts a hill-top castle that dates back two millennia, a Roman amphitheatre that is still in use today, a charming medieval centre and a stately gothic palace. The golden beach – Port Sagunto – is only a very short bus ride away too. Get lines C5 or C6 from Valencia Nord. Check out my recent day-trip.

Relax in Patacona beach

Patacona is my favourite beach within the city environs. It’s the best option if you’re looking for more nature and want to get away from the crowds, but don’t have the time to venture out of Valencia. The 31 bus will drop you closeby or alternatively walk up from Playa Malvarosa, passing the Chiringuito Ocio where the promenade ends. With nothing but dunes and reeds to your back, relaxation awaits.

Admire the street art in El Carmen

The bohemian neighbourhood of El Carmen is famous for its striking street art [see my longer post]. Learn all about the history of the neighbourhood and its most famous artists & artwork on an engaging walking tour. Remember to take lots of photos as your favourite piece may not be there tomorrow.

street art el carmen
Street art in El Carmen

Travel back in time in the archaeology museum

In 138 BC the Romans founded Valencia. The museum takes you right back to the beginning. Located a stone’s throw from the Plaza de La Virgen, the museum is uniquely built above the archeological site, which means that exploring the museum feels like you’re going back in time to the heart of the ancient city, complete with the forum, senate, original roads and horreum (or public warehouse). Entrance cost is 2 euro.

Watch the water court, an ancient tradition

The tribunal de las aguas (or water court) meets outside the Door of the Apostles in the Plaza de la Virgen, every Thursday at midday. It maintains a thousand year tradition originally introduced by the Moors and formalised by Jaime I to discuss disputes relating to irrigation. They sit in a circle on wood and leather 17th century chairs, and make their rulings

Have further ideas for alternative things to see and do in Valencia? Leave a comment below.

Categories
Valencia

The arresting street art of El Carmen, Valencia

Marcus

El Carmen, Valencia’s oldest quarter. Traditional yet bohemian.  A medieval labyrinth where ambling tourists coincide with a proud local community. Amid the decaying facades and winding streets, striking and colourful street art bursts out. Getting lost can be part of the fun. Here’s an introduction to the neighbourhood’s engaging street art.

The history of El Carmen’s street art

Today’s street art was born out of a great tragedy. In 1957 the river Turia burst its banks and a voracious flood engulfed Valencia, swallowing up whole neighbourhoods in an event known as the Gran Riada de Valencia. Over 80 people died, with extensive damage to streets and properties.

With its proximity to the river, the historical barrio of El Carmen was gutted. Whole swathes of the neighbourhood became uninhabitable. Buildings were abandoned. Crime and vice filled the vacuum.

Street art in El Carmen, Valencia
Victoria Cano Perez’s river that straddles three walls, full of symbolism. One could read it as a tribute to those that perished in the flood and the resilience of the neighbourhood

In time, artists struggling to establish themselves spotted an opportunity. Cheap rent along with deserted buildings meant an endless supply of canvasses right on their doorway with a captive audience. The authorities turned a blind-eye, knowing the art couldn’t make the neighbourhood any worse. Colour came to deprived El Carmen. Renewal. A place transformed.

Street art in El Carmen, Valencia
Street art by Disneylexya who uses Aztec themes

The best streets and time to appreciate the art

Today some of the best streets to explore are Carrer de Baix and the connecting Carrer de Dalt where the same piece flows from one street to the next; Carrera de na Jordana; Guillem de Castro; Placa del Carme; and Carrer de Balme where the empty lots and facades allow enormous murals.

The ideal time is from 6pm to 7pm when the heat has subsided and the majority of shop fronts are still shuttered, maximising the exhibits on show.

Street art in El Carmen, Valencia
Street art in El Carmen

Take lots of photos. Artwork can be disappear or be defaced over night. The streets are ever changing and dynamic exhibitions. The fleeting nature of the murals means that the art stays current and is often politically engaging.

Street art in El Carmen, Valencia
“New banknotes, now worth less”

Learn more

A street tour run by Valencia Street Tour, which provides the history of the street art in the neighbourhood and the specific artists and their work, is a great way to spend an evening. Each tour is unique as the ephemeral nature of street art means that the streetscape will change daily.

Looking for more things to see and do in Valencia, see my post on alternative activities.

Categories
Spain

How to choose Spanish ham

photo of a glass of wine beside jamon
Photo by ROMAN ODINTSOV on Pexels.com

Marcus

One of the best things about Spain is the ham. You find it everywhere – from your corner bar to high-end restaurants – and with everything: morning tostada, lunchtime bocadillo and served as tapas. It’s quintessential Spanish culture. 

With commonality comes diversity – there are so many varieties (and prices). A supermarket aisle might be wholly dedicated to different types of Spanish ham that to the naked eye will look much the same. It can be overwhelming.

This blog will de-mystify the differences so that you will know exactly how to choose Spanish ham:

What is Spanish ham?

The meat comes from the back leg of a pig. After the animal is slaughtered, the leg is stored in a barrel of salt to drain as much moisture as possible. The salt is then wiped cleaned and the leg is left to hang and cure. To serve, slices of ham are carved off the bone. 

To choose the ham, these are the most important questions to ask.

Is it Iberico or serrano? 

Iberico ham comes from the breed of pig unique to the Iberian peninsula. It’s a black pig that was originally bred from native boars and pigs imported by the Phoenicians, the region’s first colonisers.  

The humble iberian pig

Serrano is simply any ham that comes from a non-iberian pig, normally a white pig.

Examing the ham, you’ll see differences in the colour. Iberian ham tends to be a deeper red while serrano is pinkish. In general Iberian has a more intense flavour and is juicer due to the quality of the fat. Serrano is saltier.  

A handy trick to check the quality of the ham hanging in a bodega is to spot the colour of the hooves: if black, it’s Iberico; and it’s serrano if white or light brown. 

How was the pig fed?

The next question concerns the diet of the pig. The three main varietes are  

  • Bellota (100% acorn) 
  • Cebo de Campo (a mix of acorns and commercial feed)
  • Cebo (commerical feed)

Bellota is the highest quality as the pigs have been reared in open pasture foraging acorns, giving the meat a unique sweet taste. In addition, the effort of finding the acorns provides exercise to the pig, enabling a rich marbling to form.  The more cebo (or commercial feed) is used to replace natural acorns in the diet, the quality of the final product decreases. 

As a general rule, bellota and cebo de campo are classified as free-range unlike cebo fed pigs that are farmed intensively.

How long has it been cured?

The curing process is simple. All you need is salt, air and time, managing carefully the humidity and temperature. It’s time that dictates the final mark of quality.

When it comes to serrano, the varieties are 

  • De bodega– cured between 1 and 12 months 
  • Reserva – cured between 12 and 15 months 
  • Gran reserva– cured for longer than 15 months 

With iberico, the curing practices align with the diet. Iberica de bellota and cebo de campo need to be cured for at least three years. Cebo only needs to be cured for two years.  The longer the curing process, the richer and more intense the meat. 

Hanging hams in Granada {photo taken in August 2020]

How should you eat it?

With this guide you’ll have figured out that the best quality ham is iberico, acorn fed and cured for at least three years. This is the melt in the mouth magnificence you dream about. It can come at a price too: the most expensive legs go for about €4,000.

As such, my advice is to simply serve it on its own. Don’t waste it on a sandwich where the rich taste will be subsumed; it’s best solo as a starter or tapas plate. And when it comes to the really good stuff, serve it on a special occasion, such as a wedding or birthday. Another tip is to eat it at room temperature. This allows the meat to ‘sweat’, which melts the fat and maximises the flavour and aroma.

In contrast, serrano ham is more versatile. It’s your man for sandwiches and as an ingredient for other dishes, such as croquettas.

Categories
Spain Valencia

Day trip to Sagunto

sagunto castle

Marcus

I’ve started this blog to share my experiences while travelling during my sabbatical. Focus on travel, food, drink, and history.

Sagunto, a little-known town about 30km outside of Valencia, played a pivotal role in Spanish and European history. It’s worth a visit. What follows is my account of my day trip to Sagunto.

The first thing you notice as your train rolls in is the ruinous castle that sits proudly on the hill-top looming over the town. Sprawling, dilapidated and imposing, it’s an image that stays with you. 

The Sagunto old town

A short stroll from the station brings you to the attractive old town. Here you’ll find a charming ayuntamiento, the gothic church of Santa Maria and the medieval Plaza Mayor with original roman pillars still supporting the colonnade.

Venturing further up the hill you pass the Jewish quarter, entered via an arched gateway with a sign that proclaims, “Portalet de la Juderia”. The neighbourhood preserves its original layout from medieval times. As in so many Spanish towns, the quarter represents a lasting physical memory of a community long since gone. 

gateway to jewish quarter in sagunto
Gateway to the Jewish quarter

As the path gets steeper the impressive Roman amphitheater jumps into view. Built into the hill and dating from the 1st century AD, the theatre is still used today. As I pass, men are ferrying in equipment for the night’s performance. 

Castillo De Sagunto

At last, you reach the castle. Occupied for over 2000 years, the seven different sections of the castle each speak of a different period in Sagunto and indeed Spain’s history. Iberians, Romans, Moors, and the Reconquistadors have all occupied this strategic site. In more recent history the Spanish Civil War saw the parapets used as machine gun posts. 

The castle provides spectacular views of the town, the coast and the surrounding Valencian countryside.

a view of Sagunto castle from the old town
A view of Sagunto castle from the old town

Hannibal’s brutal siege

Its most famous moment came in 219 BC when Hannibal captured the pro-Roman castle and sacked the city, prompting Rome to declare war. Hannibal, doubling down on his success, marched his army across the Alps and won several battles, giving him the control of much of Italy.

However the Romans eventually turned the tide, vanquishing the Carthaginians from Italy and later Iberia, leading to Roman hegemony in what is modern-day Spain and forever changing the peninsula.

The siege of Sagunto was brutal. The local population were all put to death refusing Hannibal’s offer of amnesty if they were “willing to depart …., unarmed, with two garments”. The whole city was pillaged and destroyed, the only physical survivor being the Temple to Diana, reportedly owing to Hannibal religiosity. The large foundations stones of the temple can be seen in the old town. 

How to get to Sagunto

The best option from Valencia is to take either lines C5 or C6 from Valencia Nord in the centre of the city. It costs 7.50 euro return and there are regular departures.