A post industrial ‘hole’ reborn as a cultural hub with world-famous art and architecture. Surrounded by beautiful countryside, the historic city centre boasts a buzzing and delectable gourmet food scene. The city is Basque but ever so European. In early September I enjoyed a long weekend in Bilbao with my Dad.
Day 1: a Basque welcome and pintxos in the old town
The airport bus (€3) whizzes you to the centre, past the shining Guggenheim, into the new town, El Ensanche. From our hotel (Barcelo Bilbao), which sits across the river Nervion, it’s a short stroll to the old town, Casco Viejo.
Before we get far we are enticed by La Tortilla, an unassuming bar beside the baroque ayuntamiento (city hall). Busy with smiling locals, we can’t resist a caña (the standard beer serving in Spain – usually less than a half a pint). Unlike the other Basques, we are served in larger glasses, the attentive barman assuming our northern European tastes correctly.
Upon hearing we’re Irish, a proud Basque woman inserts herself and insists on buying us another round, remarking on our shared history and nationhood. Unable to properly express our gratitude (‘gracias’ doesn’t cut it here..), she teaches us the Basque (or Euskera) for thank you:
Later the old town, with its evocative narrow streets, buzzes with activity. Revellers congregate in and out of the multitude of bars, beer in one hand and a pintxo in the other. Bilbao is somewhere to stand, enjoying good company, excellent food and refreshing beer.
We pop from bar to bar, getting a flavour of each place. We try Baster (rammed), Gure Toki (innovative and creative) and Bar Charli (excellent vegetarian options). All are excellent.
The heart of the pintxo scene is on Plaza Nuevo – an attractive arcaded neoclassical square – breaking that rule that the more scenic the location the worse the food.
Day 2: Guggenheim & funicular to Artxanda
After breakfast in Cafe Kovac, we stroll down the waterfront to the Guggenheim. Our cultural appetites are whetted by the myriad of sculptures along the way. Indeed, the city’s streets boast 150 different sculptures of varying styles.
The Guggenheim shimmers in the sunlight. The wavy titanium structure designed by Frank Gehry was inaugurated in 1997 and is said to have sparked the city’s regeneration and emergence as a global centre for art.
On the first level, Richard Serra’s’ immersive steel structures have a dizzying effect. Upstairs, Norman Foster’s curated auto show makes even the least enthusiastic fall in love with the car. The exhibition artfully tells the story as to how the automobile has shaped our landscape and has exerted such an influence on the 20th century. My dad has a story that he can relate to each car on show.
Eschewing some of the more touristy options, lunch is across the road at Mazerreo, a local fish restaurant that faces the waterfront, where we avail of their excellent and economical menu del dia. Dishes include sardines, grilled sea bass and the highlight – mamitaka de pulpo, a traditional fish stew, first popularised on the fishing boats that scoured the Bay of Biscay – washed down with chilled Rioja.
In the afternoon, we cross Calatrava’s inviting curved footbridge to reach the funicular which ferries us up to the summit of Artxanda. Bilbao is steeply enclosed by mountains meaning that within moments of setting off, we’re enveloped in thick foliage and countryside. From the top, the views of the estuary and surrounding mountains are spectacular and give a sense of the city’s maritime past. Before descending, we polish off a basque cake in Restaurante Txakoli, a traditional basque building first built at the end of the 19th century as a refuge for mountaineers and shepherds.
Dinner is at Los Fueros in the old town near Plaza Nueva. Traditional dishes are served in a rustic and stylish setting with green mosaic tiles. Their pipparas – tempura style green peppers – are morish, and superbly complemented by our waiter’s recommended white wine – a local txakoli named Señorío de Otxaran. One to note down.
Day 3: Mercado Ribera & the museum quarter
We explore the evocative old town further, popping into the 14th century gothic cathedral, Bilbao’s oldest building, and later the riverside Mercado Ribera, which humms with activity. Aglow with natural light and art deco stained glass windows, upstairs is dedicated to fresh produce while downstairs is aflush with stylish pincho bars.
Ambling across the new town, designed and built in the latter half of the 19th century, we take in the the modernist architecture, most impressive is Txabarri’s Palace on the central Moyua square – built in 1894 to resemble the renaissance palaces found in Brugge and Antwerp. Today it houses Spain’s central government. A Spanish flag flutters above the door, the first one I’ve seen since arriving in the autonomous region.
Before continuing the tourist trail, we fuel up in Continental Cafe, a classy establishment just outside of the Park Dona Casilda, around which is the museum quarter. The city is quiet on this Saturday afternoon; many have sought to escape the unseasonal heat. The two locals beside me, more used to drizzly rain, lament the hot weather,
‘Over 30 degrees is simply not normal for this time of year’, they tell me.
The elegant victorian park was established in 1907 as an English style garden and is the heart of the museum quarter. First up, the Itsasmuseum, set amid the former shipyard, tells the story of Bilbao through its maritime past – from its establishment as a vital trading post for Castile to its role as a global shipbuilding hub. It doesnt disappoint.
Across the park, the Museo de Bellas Artes is top class. Once considered a location for Picasso’s Guernica, the gallery hosts a comprehensive and excellently curated collection of Basque, Spanish and European art. Most interesting is the western wing in which each room juxtaposes a Basque artist with a an artist of global renown. For example, San Sebastian’s Chillida face to face with the German renaissance’s Durer.
To end the night, we scoff more pintxos in the classy Casa Victor Montes on Plaza Nuevo. Perched on the marble top bar, with uniformed waiters ferrying morish bites to and fro, glinting glass hanging above us and surrounded by an impressive wine and whiskey collection, it’s a culinary and sensory delight.
Day 4: day-trip to San Sebastian
On Sundays the Plaza del Arenal across from the opulent baroque opera house, Teatro Arriaga, hosts a flower market and flea market. We build up an appetite as we potter around, later satiated by tostados with shredded tomato and serrano ham – making my Dad jealous as to how I like to start my day since moving to Spain.
Our plan is to spend the afternoon in San Sebastian, the resort town about 100km east towards France. We take the metro, designed by Norman Foster – a sleek marriage of function and form, to the bus station, which too is clean and aesthetically pleasing. The corrugated red edifice, which is modern, spacious and clean, contrasts with so many Spanish bus stations, most of which are grim. In general the investment in public transport in Bilbao, which is only a mid-sized city, puts other bigger cities – (e.g. Dublin) – to shame.
Unfortunately a Sunday trip to San Sebastian isn’t an original idea – the hourly buses are very popular, meaning we have to wait until later in the afternoon to secure seats. Booking in advance is advised.
San Sebastian is a delight. A perfect crescent bay backed by elegant tall sandstone buildings. It evokes the ‘golden age’ of tourism when overseas trips were the preserve of the aristocratic. Hotel Londres, a former palace that gleams on the promenade, encapsulates this period.
The town feels grander than Bilbao, not least due to the spectacular ornate golden lions that greet you as you cross the river to the old town. As we amble towards the beach, the streets are thronging – it’s an exuberant party atmosphere. Progressive political slogans hang across the buildings.
San Sebastian has the highest ratio of Michelin stars to population in Europe and our chosen restaurant – Xarma – is top quality. Intimate decor: hanging skiffs and light bulbs. We share an exquisite gazpacho and I devour a smoky steak accompanied by a roasted pepper. Our friendly waitress remarks that competition has driven up standards.
Back in Bilboa, it’s the evocative and moorish influenced Cafe Urina, where we snack on succulent kebabs, and take advantage of the good beer selection. We finish our final night at Gin Fizz where the very friendly mixologist masterly prepares cocktails based on customer requests. The spirit collection is unrivalled.
Day 5: breakfast before parting ways
Before we go our separate ways, we breakfast in Asuaberri Obrador, a quality bakery close to where the airport bus departs. As I board my plane, Dad sends me a message from the craft-beer emporium, Basquery. A father and son weekend well spent.
