One of the best things about Spain is the ham. You find it everywhere – from your corner bar to high-end restaurants – and with everything: morning tostada, lunchtime bocadillo and served as tapas. It’s quintessential Spanish culture.
With commonality comes diversity – there are so many varieties (and prices). A supermarket aisle might be wholly dedicated to different types of Spanish ham that to the naked eye will look much the same. It can be overwhelming.
This blog will de-mystify the differences so that you will know exactly how to choose Spanish ham:
What is Spanish ham?
The meat comes from the back leg of a pig. After the animal is slaughtered, the leg is stored in a barrel of salt to drain as much moisture as possible. The salt is then wiped cleaned and the leg is left to hang and cure. To serve, slices of ham are carved off the bone.
To choose the ham, these are the most important questions to ask.
Is it Iberico or serrano?
Iberico ham comes from the breed of pig unique to the Iberian peninsula. It’s a black pig that was originally bred from native boars and pigs imported by the Phoenicians, the region’s first colonisers.
Serrano is simply any ham that comes from a non-iberian pig, normally a white pig.
Examing the ham, you’ll see differences in the colour. Iberian ham tends to be a deeper red while serrano is pinkish. In general Iberian has a more intense flavour and is juicer due to the quality of the fat. Serrano is saltier.
A handy trick to check the quality of the ham hanging in a bodega is to spot the colour of the hooves: if black, it’s Iberico; and it’s serrano if white or light brown.
How was the pig fed?
The next question concerns the diet of the pig. The three main varietes are
- Bellota (100% acorn)
- Cebo de Campo (a mix of acorns and commercial feed)
- Cebo (commerical feed)
Bellota is the highest quality as the pigs have been reared in open pasture foraging acorns, giving the meat a unique sweet taste. In addition, the effort of finding the acorns provides exercise to the pig, enabling a rich marbling to form. The more cebo (or commercial feed) is used to replace natural acorns in the diet, the quality of the final product decreases.
As a general rule, bellota and cebo de campo are classified as free-range unlike cebo fed pigs that are farmed intensively.
How long has it been cured?
The curing process is simple. All you need is salt, air and time, managing carefully the humidity and temperature. It’s time that dictates the final mark of quality.
When it comes to serrano, the varieties are
- De bodega– cured between 1 and 12 months
- Reserva – cured between 12 and 15 months
- Gran reserva– cured for longer than 15 months
With iberico, the curing practices align with the diet. Iberica de bellota and cebo de campo need to be cured for at least three years. Cebo only needs to be cured for two years. The longer the curing process, the richer and more intense the meat.
How should you eat it?
With this guide you’ll have figured out that the best quality ham is iberico, acorn fed and cured for at least three years. This is the melt in the mouth magnificence you dream about. It can come at a price too: the most expensive legs go for about €4,000.
As such, my advice is to simply serve it on its own. Don’t waste it on a sandwich where the rich taste will be subsumed; it’s best solo as a starter or tapas plate. And when it comes to the really good stuff, serve it on a special occasion, such as a wedding or birthday. Another tip is to eat it at room temperature. This allows the meat to ‘sweat’, which melts the fat and maximises the flavour and aroma.
In contrast, serrano ham is more versatile. It’s your man for sandwiches and as an ingredient for other dishes, such as croquettas.