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Spain Valencia

Alternative things to see and do in Valencia

You’ve done it all. The guidebook has been thoroughly thumbed. The delectable Central Mercat, the grand Lonja, historic El Carmen, Turia Park and Calatrava’s Ciudad de las Artes y Ciencias. You’ve gorged on Paella and imbibed Agua de Valencia. All ticked off. Wondering what else? Don’t worry – you’ve only scratched the surface. Here are some alternative things to see and do in Valencia:

Visit the Julio Gonzalez collection

Julio Gonzalez (1876 – 1942) was one of the leading sculptors of the 20th century. A close friend of Picasso’s, Gonzalez’s estate bequeathed a large chunk of his collection – almost 400 pieces – to the IVAM, Valencia’s modern art museum. Gonzalez’s arresting metal works give a physical three dimensional form to cubist expression and portray the horrors of the Spanish civil war and the rise of fascism. The museum also hosts interesting and varied temporary exhibitions.

Do a language exchange

A language exchange is an excellent opportunity to meet other travellers, expats and locals as well as brush up on your language skills in a relaxed environment. Cafe Berlin, a trendy bar in Ruzafa, hosts exchanges on Monday and Wednesdays while Valencia Language Exchange organises events almost every day of the week, including a free salsa class on Wednesdays.

Take a trip to Sagunto

Sagunto is a little-known gem of a town only 30 minutes north of Valencia. It boasts a hill-top castle that dates back two millennia, a Roman amphitheatre that is still in use today, a charming medieval centre and a stately gothic palace. The golden beach – Port Sagunto – is only a very short bus ride away too. Get lines C5 or C6 from Valencia Nord. Check out my recent day-trip.

Relax in Patacona beach

Patacona is my favourite beach within the city environs. It’s the best option if you’re looking for more nature and want to get away from the crowds, but don’t have the time to venture out of Valencia. The 31 bus will drop you closeby or alternatively walk up from Playa Malvarosa, passing the Chiringuito Ocio where the promenade ends. With nothing but dunes and reeds to your back, relaxation awaits.

Admire the street art in El Carmen

The bohemian neighbourhood of El Carmen is famous for its striking street art [see my longer post]. Learn all about the history of the neighbourhood and its most famous artists & artwork on an engaging walking tour. Remember to take lots of photos as your favourite piece may not be there tomorrow.

street art el carmen
Street art in El Carmen

Travel back in time in the archaeology museum

In 138 BC the Romans founded Valencia. The museum takes you right back to the beginning. Located a stone’s throw from the Plaza de La Virgen, the museum is uniquely built above the archeological site, which means that exploring the museum feels like you’re going back in time to the heart of the ancient city, complete with the forum, senate, original roads and horreum (or public warehouse). Entrance cost is 2 euro.

Watch the water court, an ancient tradition

The tribunal de las aguas (or water court) meets outside the Door of the Apostles in the Plaza de la Virgen, every Thursday at midday. It maintains a thousand year tradition originally introduced by the Moors and formalised by Jaime I to discuss disputes relating to irrigation. They sit in a circle on wood and leather 17th century chairs, and make their rulings

Have further ideas for alternative things to see and do in Valencia? Leave a comment below.

Categories
Spain Valencia

Day trip to Sagunto

Sagunto, a little-known town about 30km outside of Valencia, played a pivotal role in Spanish and European history. It’s worth a visit. What follows is my account of my day trip to Sagunto.

The first thing you notice as your train rolls in is the ruinous castle that sits proudly on the hill-top looming over the town. Sprawling, dilapidated and imposing, it’s an image that stays with you. 

The Sagunto old town

A short stroll from the station brings you to the attractive old town. Here you’ll find a charming ayuntamiento, the gothic church of Santa Maria and the medieval Plaza Mayor with original roman pillars still supporting the colonnade.

Venturing further up the hill you pass the Jewish quarter, entered via an arched gateway with a sign that proclaims, “Portalet de la Juderia”. The neighbourhood preserves its original layout from medieval times. As in so many Spanish towns, the quarter represents a lasting physical memory of a community long since gone. 

As the path gets steeper the impressive Roman amphitheater jumps into view. Built into the hill and dating from the 1st century AD, the theatre is still used today. As I pass, men are ferrying in equipment for the night’s performance. 

Castillo De Sagunto

At last, you reach the castle. Occupied for over 2000 years, the seven different sections of the castle each speak of a different period in Sagunto and indeed Spain’s history. Iberians, Romans, Moors, and the Reconquistadors have all occupied this strategic site. In more recent history the Spanish Civil War saw the parapets used as machine gun posts. 

The castle provides spectacular views of the town, the coast and the surrounding Valencian countryside.

Hannibal’s brutal siege

Its most famous moment came in 219 BC when Hannibal captured the pro-Roman castle and sacked the city, prompting Rome to declare war. Hannibal, doubling down on his success, marched his army across the Alps and won several battles, giving him the control of much of Italy.

However the Romans eventually turned the tide, vanquishing the Carthaginians from Italy and later Iberia, leading to Roman hegemony in what is modern-day Spain and forever changing the peninsula.

The siege of Sagunto was brutal. The local population were all put to death refusing Hannibal’s offer of amnesty if they were “willing to depart …., unarmed, with two garments”. The whole city was pillaged and destroyed, the only physical survivor being the Temple to Diana, reportedly owing to Hannibal religiosity. The large foundations stones of the temple can be seen in the old town. 

How to get to Sagunto

The best option from Valencia is to take either lines C5 or C6 from Valencia Nord in the centre of the city. It costs 7.50 euro return and there are regular departures.