Named for the Spanish civil war air shelter directly opposite, El Refugio restaurant offers innovative and cosmopolitan tapas in a warm and convivial atmosphere. Embedded in the bohemian and medieval barrio of El Carmen, El Refugio prides itself on ‘guarding against uniformity’ in its gastronomy.
El Refugio restaurant
The menu is eclectic: prawn gyozas, sea bass ceviche, Vietnamese summer rolls, cochinita pibil, “Iberican” pastrami. Global dishes benefiting from Mediterranean fresh produce. We wanted it all. If the usual Spanish tapas is starting to feel repetitive, this is the place for you.
We opted for duck and apple croquetas with mango sauce (creamy, moreish with zing), grilled aubergine drizzled with miso sauce and a dollop of cream fraiche on a bed of cous-cous (bursting with flavour: sweet, salty and meaty), and Argentinian skirt steak (tender and succulent) served with chimichurri and eye-catching Peruvian blue potatoes. Washed down with a Valencian red. Desert was a re-imagined tiramisu with apricot and dulce de leche.
Everything was devoured in a lively and intimate ambience. The inimitable and playful proprietor buzzed around nurturing a friendly atmosphere. Everyone seemed to be smiling. Arresting art-work decorated the brick walls (the restaurant exhibits a new local artist periodically). The fun of the open-kitchen seeped across the tables. It’s one of my favourite restaurants in Valencia.
We had four dishes (including one desert) and a bottle of wine. The total came to c. 60 euro. Almost all dishes on the menu are shareable.
History of the Refugios
In 1936 as the Spanish Civil War raged, the capital of the 2nd Republic moved from Madrid to Valencia. The Mediterranean city quickly became a major target for bombing, a forerunner for the indiscriminate civilian targeting that would happen in London and Dresden within a few years. In an effort to protect the city’s populace, over 50 ‘refugios’, or bomb shelters, were constructed.
Today the surviving refugios with their iconic Art Deco lettering are a vivid symbol of the city’s resilience in adversity. One surviving shelter, on Calle de Alta, would become the restaurant’s inspiration, motivated by their very own “cooking revolution”.
During the civil war, the city was bombed more than 400 times, often by the Italian air force, resulting in the deaths of 800 people, 3,000 injuries and the destruction of 900 buildings.
Further information
Address: Calle Alta 42, El Carmen
Opening times: Thursday to Saturday – 2pm – 4pm / 8.30pm – 11pm; Sundays – 2pm – 4pm.
Website: www.refugiorestaurante.com