A kaleidoscope of red. A cacophony of shouts, screams and thrills. The dense embrace of the crowd. Squelch, squelch, squelch amid a river of puree. Flying red objects. A pelt to the head. It’s La Tomatina.
Sensory overload. Clean (and smug) locals cheer from their balconies, their buildings sensibly covered in protective mesh. A brief respite as we cling to the sides of the narrow street while a truck carrying tomatoes squeezes by. A fresh batch is unceremoniously dumped. The truck moves on and the war (or la guerra) recommences.
A fleeting snapshot on the streets of Buñol on the last Wednesday of August during the Tomatina Festival, including my top tips (scroll to the end).
The La Tomatina festival
Celebrated annually, Tomatina is a glorified tomato fight that takes place in Buñol, a small and otherwise unremarkable town in Valencia province. Locals, Spaniards and people from around the world congregate to enjoy the absurdity. This year – 2022 – 14,000 people participated along with more than 130 tonnes of tomatoes.
One of the most famous Spanish fiestas, it ranks alongside Las Fallas in Valencia, San Fermin in Pamplona, San Juan in Menorca and Semana Santa in Seville.
My arrival to Buñol
My former Spanish language school, Taronja, which does excursions very well, organised a day-trip to the festival from Valencia. Dark and early, we bussed it to Buñol. Bleary eyed, we emerged in the outskirts of the town where disused factories pockmarked the landscape.
The school threw a pre-party brunch to prepare us for the ‘war’. A traditional Valencian almuerzo to line the stomach – rich tomato sauce with sausages served in a bocadillo – washed down with beers, tinto de verano and shots of cazalla, a Valencian anise liquor. The idea of a tomato war was starting to appeal.
Soon it’s time to march down to the streets. Progress is halted by chaotic queues to redeem our digital passes for the necessary wristbands. After a two year hiatus, the organisers seemed to be out of practice. Eventually through the gates, there is a palpable sense of excitement. A shared sense of participating in something unique. We were ready to go.
It kicks off at 10am, when a Spanish jamon (see my post on choosing ham in Spain), is speared on top of a greased pole in the town square. The goal is to be first to climb up and retrieve it. Buoyed on my screams and shouts from the crowd, while being drenched by water, locals scramble up the pole. When the ham is finally dislodged (usually at about 11), it signals the start of the madness – and very soon the tomato trucks roll in.
The history of La Tomatina
No one really knows the exact origin of the festival. The received wisdom is that it started in late August 1945 when, during a parade, some youths fell into an argument. Taking advantage of a nearby fruit and veg market stall, they started throwing fruit and vegetables at each other. Enjoying it so much, the next year more young people engaged in a pre-planned quarrel, this time bringing their own tomatoes. Year and year more people took part, establishing a tradition.
Others have claimed that the festival stemmed from the town’s dislike of Franco. (See my post on Spain’s five most influential wars, including the Spanish Civil War in which Franco came to power).
“This village was against Franco,” said Miguel Sierra Galaraza, an amateur historian from Bunol, to the Wall Street Journal in 1995. “Throwing tomatoes at the priest and mayor was a way to protest against authority.”
In the early 1950s, the festival was banned by Franco due to the absence of any religious link. The tomato fights continued, however, leading to arrests. Following a widely supported protest from the town involving a coffin containing tomatoes, Franco relented and the festival was finally made official in 1957. Since then the fiesta has grown and grown in popularity.
In 2013 the town eventually introduced an entry fee to control the ever-growing demand after attendance grew to what was estimated at over 50,000. The festival was cancelled in 2020 and 2021 due to the pandemic.
The tomato war (la guerra)
The tomato fight commences. Hesitant at first, it soon becomes second nature throwing tomatoes at complete strangers. Alliances are forged, and quickly betrayed. It’s loud, packed and exuberant. The body numbs to the constant pelts.
As more and more tomatoes arrive, we and the streets get redder and redder. Anarchic.
The battle lasts about an hour and by then it’s more than enough.
Completely soaked and splattered we amble down to the river to wash off, where some kind residents hose us down. Once somewhat clean (a day later I discovered remnants of tomato in my ear…), we make our way to the square where under a canopy, there are bars, dj and a dancefloor. Reggaeton is blaring. It all feels bizarre yet intoxicating.
Meanwhile the authorities hose down the streets, sweeping away the tomato mush. Buñol is known for having some of the cleanest and sparkling streets in Spain. The acid of the tomatoes counteracts against the grime.
By the late afternoon, it’s time to return to Valencia. On the bus, I reflect on the festival. Fun and unique, there was something wonderful about people from around the world gathering in one spot to madly throw tomatoes at one another. A shared experience that captures the eccentricity and magic of Spain.
Would I recommend it? Absolutely. Would I do it again? Probably not.
My tips for La Tomatina
- Bring and wear goggles to avoid blackeyes and the sting of the tomato acid.
- Don’t wear clothes you value. An old t-shirt and swimming attire is perfect. Permanent staining is inevitable.
- Be so careful for thieves. I witnessed a number of people complaining of thefts. Don’t leave your valuables out of sight (and better still avoid bringing them).
- Bring cash: 20 to 30 euro. Keep some cash in your back pocket for getting drink & food before and after the war. The majority of sellers didn’t accept card.
- Be thrifty in what packages you sign up for. Many offer paella and drinks for a hefty extra cost, which you’ll find cheaply in the town. The most important thing to book is your ticket and transport to and from the town.
- Get the wristband in advance, ideally before arriving in Bunol. I spent nearly an hour queuing to get mine in the morning.
- Squeeze the tomatoes before throwing them. This will lesson the sting of the hit.
- Closed shoes are crucial. Flip-flops and sandals will get stuck in the messy tomato puree.
Next year’s festival (2023) will take place on Wednesday the 30th of August.