Tag: El Carmen

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Spain Valencia

Alternative things to see and do in Valencia

beige and white concrete buildings photography
Photo by Iván Rivero on Pexels.com

Marcus

You’ve done it all. The guidebook has been thoroughly thumbed. The delectable Central Mercat, the grand Lonja, historic El Carmen, Turia Park and Calatrava’s Ciudad de las Artes y Ciencias. You’ve gorged on Paella and imbibed Agua de Valencia. All ticked off. Wondering what else? Don’t worry – you’ve only scratched the surface. Here are some alternative things to see and do in Valencia:

Visit the Julio Gonzalez collection

Julio Gonzalez (1876 – 1942) was one of the leading sculptors of the 20th century. A close friend of Picasso’s, Gonzalez’s estate bequeathed a large chunk of his collection – almost 400 pieces – to the IVAM, Valencia’s modern art museum. Gonzalez’s arresting metal works give a physical three dimensional form to cubist expression and portray the horrors of the Spanish civil war and the rise of fascism. The museum also hosts interesting and varied temporary exhibitions.

julio rodriguez valencia IVAM
One of Julio Rodriguez’s pieces in IVAM

Do a language exchange

A language exchange is an excellent opportunity to meet other travellers, expats and locals as well as brush up on your language skills in a relaxed environment. Cafe Berlin, a trendy bar in Ruzafa, hosts exchanges on Monday and Wednesdays while Valencia Language Exchange organises events almost every day of the week, including a free salsa class on Wednesdays.

Take a trip to Sagunto

Sagunto is a little-known gem of a town only 30 minutes north of Valencia. It boasts a hill-top castle that dates back two millennia, a Roman amphitheatre that is still in use today, a charming medieval centre and a stately gothic palace. The golden beach – Port Sagunto – is only a very short bus ride away too. Get lines C5 or C6 from Valencia Nord. Check out my recent day-trip.

Relax in Patacona beach

Patacona is my favourite beach within the city environs. It’s the best option if you’re looking for more nature and want to get away from the crowds, but don’t have the time to venture out of Valencia. The 31 bus will drop you closeby or alternatively walk up from Playa Malvarosa, passing the Chiringuito Ocio where the promenade ends. With nothing but dunes and reeds to your back, relaxation awaits.

Admire the street art in El Carmen

The bohemian neighbourhood of El Carmen is famous for its striking street art [see my longer post]. Learn all about the history of the neighbourhood and its most famous artists & artwork on an engaging walking tour. Remember to take lots of photos as your favourite piece may not be there tomorrow.

street art el carmen
Street art in El Carmen

Travel back in time in the archaeology museum

In 138 BC the Romans founded Valencia. The museum takes you right back to the beginning. Located a stone’s throw from the Plaza de La Virgen, the museum is uniquely built above the archeological site, which means that exploring the museum feels like you’re going back in time to the heart of the ancient city, complete with the forum, senate, original roads and horreum (or public warehouse). Entrance cost is 2 euro.

Watch the water court, an ancient tradition

The tribunal de las aguas (or water court) meets outside the Door of the Apostles in the Plaza de la Virgen, every Thursday at midday. It maintains a thousand year tradition originally introduced by the Moors and formalised by Jaime I to discuss disputes relating to irrigation. They sit in a circle on wood and leather 17th century chairs, and make their rulings

Have further ideas for alternative things to see and do in Valencia? Leave a comment below.

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Valencia

The arresting street art of El Carmen, Valencia

Marcus

El Carmen, Valencia’s oldest quarter. Traditional yet bohemian.  A medieval labyrinth where ambling tourists coincide with a proud local community. Amid the decaying facades and winding streets, striking and colourful street art bursts out. Getting lost can be part of the fun. Here’s an introduction to the neighbourhood’s engaging street art.

The history of El Carmen’s street art

Today’s street art was born out of a great tragedy. In 1957 the river Turia burst its banks and a voracious flood engulfed Valencia, swallowing up whole neighbourhoods in an event known as the Gran Riada de Valencia. Over 80 people died, with extensive damage to streets and properties.

With its proximity to the river, the historical barrio of El Carmen was gutted. Whole swathes of the neighbourhood became uninhabitable. Buildings were abandoned. Crime and vice filled the vacuum.

Street art in El Carmen, Valencia
Victoria Cano Perez’s river that straddles three walls, full of symbolism. One could read it as a tribute to those that perished in the flood and the resilience of the neighbourhood

In time, artists struggling to establish themselves spotted an opportunity. Cheap rent along with deserted buildings meant an endless supply of canvasses right on their doorway with a captive audience. The authorities turned a blind-eye, knowing the art couldn’t make the neighbourhood any worse. Colour came to deprived El Carmen. Renewal. A place transformed.

Street art in El Carmen, Valencia
Street art by Disneylexya who uses Aztec themes

The best streets and time to appreciate the art

Today some of the best streets to explore are Carrer de Baix and the connecting Carrer de Dalt where the same piece flows from one street to the next; Carrera de na Jordana; Guillem de Castro; Placa del Carme; and Carrer de Balme where the empty lots and facades allow enormous murals.

The ideal time is from 6pm to 7pm when the heat has subsided and the majority of shop fronts are still shuttered, maximising the exhibits on show.

Street art in El Carmen, Valencia
Street art in El Carmen

Take lots of photos. Artwork can be disappear or be defaced over night. The streets are ever changing and dynamic exhibitions. The fleeting nature of the murals means that the art stays current and is often politically engaging.

Street art in El Carmen, Valencia
“New banknotes, now worth less”

Learn more

A street tour run by Valencia Street Tour, which provides the history of the street art in the neighbourhood and the specific artists and their work, is a great way to spend an evening. Each tour is unique as the ephemeral nature of street art means that the streetscape will change daily.

Looking for more things to see and do in Valencia, see my post on alternative activities.

Categories
Spain Valencia

El Refugio restaurant: a Valencian ‘revolution’

el refugio restaurant valencia
The refugio opposite the restaurant

Marcus

Named for the Spanish civil war air shelter directly opposite, El Refugio restaurant offers innovative and cosmopolitan tapas in a warm and convivial atmosphere. Embedded in the bohemian and medieval barrio of El Carmen, El Refugio prides itself on ‘guarding against uniformity’ in its gastronomy. 

El Refugio restaurant

The menu is eclectic: prawn gyozas, sea bass ceviche, Vietnamese summer rolls, cochinita pibil, “Iberican” pastrami. Global dishes benefiting from Mediterranean fresh produce. We wanted it all. If the usual Spanish tapas is starting to feel repetitive, this is the place for you. 

We opted for duck and apple croquetas with mango sauce (creamy, moreish with zing), grilled aubergine drizzled with miso sauce and a dollop of cream fraiche on a bed of cous-cous (bursting with flavour: sweet, salty and meaty), and Argentinian skirt steak (tender and succulent) served with chimichurri and eye-catching Peruvian blue potatoes. Washed down with a Valencian red. Desert was a re-imagined tiramisu with apricot and dulce de leche. 

Everything was devoured in a lively and intimate ambience. The inimitable and playful proprietor buzzed around nurturing a friendly atmosphere. Everyone seemed to be smiling. Arresting art-work decorated the brick walls (the restaurant exhibits a new local artist periodically). The fun of the open-kitchen seeped across the tables. It’s one of my favourite restaurants in Valencia. 

We had four dishes (including one desert) and a bottle of wine. The total came to c. 60 euro. Almost all dishes on the menu are shareable. 

History of the Refugios

In 1936 as the Spanish Civil War raged, the capital of the 2nd Republic moved from Madrid to Valencia. The Mediterranean city quickly became a major target for bombing, a forerunner for the indiscriminate civilian targeting that would happen in London and Dresden within a few years. In an effort to protect the city’s populace, over 50 ‘refugios’, or bomb shelters, were constructed.

Today the surviving refugios with their iconic Art Deco lettering are a vivid symbol of the city’s resilience in adversity. One surviving shelter, on Calle de Alta, would become the restaurant’s inspiration, motivated by their very own “cooking revolution”.

el refugio restaurant valencia
The refugio opposite the restaurant

During the civil war, the city was bombed more than 400 times, often by the Italian air force, resulting in the deaths of 800 people, 3,000 injuries and the destruction of 900 buildings.

Further information

Address: Calle Alta 42, El Carmen
Opening times: Thursday to Saturday – 2pm – 4pm / 8.30pm – 11pm; Sundays – 2pm – 4pm.
Website: www.refugiorestaurante.com