Category: Spain

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Barcelona Spain

“Tourists go home”, Barcelona’s problem with tourism

"Tourists, go home, you are not welcome", anti-tourist graffiti Gracia, Barcelona
"Tourists, go home, you are not welcome", anti-tourist graffiti in Gracia, Barcelona

Marcus

Tourists go home

Seeing the first graffiti was a novelty. A rush of intrigue and levity. A brief distraction to the mundane. A gentle act of dissent. “Tourists go home”, the blue scrawl boldly proclaimed.

Very soon we saw more. More and more. Every block, corner and wall seemed to be inscribed with the message. A coordinated and planned act of defiance.

A sinking sense of unease built. “What the f*ck are we doing here”, I thought.

"Tourists, go home, you are not welcome", anti-tourist graffiti Gracia, Barcelona
“Tourists, go home, you are not welcome”, anti-tourist graffiti in Gracia, Barcelona

This was my first experience of Gracia, the traditionally working class area in Barcelona. At the forefront of the debate: has tourism gone too far?

Barcelona as a tourist destination

Barcelona hasn’t always been such an emblematic tourist destination. The 1992 Olympic triggered urban regeneration and put the city in the consciousness of travellers. Given Barcelona’s endowment of sun, history and a rich catalan culture as well as a concerted push from the local government, the city was ready to take off.

Prior to the pandemic, there were approximately 32 million annual visitors to the city, in 1992 the figure was 1.7 million. The permanent population within the city limits is 1.6 million, giving a ratio of about 19 visitors to permanent residents.

This contrasts with London that has a population of about 9 million and welcomed 22 million international visitors in 2019.

It’s not simply the bare numbers. Half of the 32 million are day-trippers, of which a large chunk are cruise passengers. As a result many of the tourists congregate in the most popular areas, such as Las Ramblas, Park Guell and La Sagrada, determined to see the iconic sights in their short-time. This leads to extreme congestion in certain spots and means that the vast sums spent by tourists are concentrated in a limited number of tourist cafes and gift-shops, with little left over for other parts of the city.

Quoted in the Guardian, Marti Cuso, a resident in the Gothic Quarter, the city’s busiest tourist area bemoaned, 

“My barrio is so saturated with tourists it’s impossible to meet someone in the street or for children to play or even to get a good night’s sleep,”

tourism kills the city, Gracia Barcelona
“Tourism kills the city”, street art in Gracia near Park Guell

A consultation carried out in 2015 by the local government pointed to various issues with overtourism, including anti-social behaviour, overcrowding and a loss of identity.

Tourism brings enormous revenue to the city and accounts for a significant part of the economy, but as with many economic issues society grapples with today, it’s not just the size of the pie – it’s how you share it. The consultation highlighted ‘poor redistribution of the wealth generated and poor quality jobs”.

Tourists go home, carteristas welcome - gracia barcelona
“Tourists go home, carteristas welcome” – graffiti in Gracia Barcelona. Carteristas translates as ‘pickpockets’

A salutory encounter in Valencia

The ethics of tourism and its effects on local communities have particularly interested me since first moving to Valencia. An ever growing ex-pat community, drawn mainly from Northern Europe, have decamped to the mediterranean city, taking advantage of looser working remote rules since the pandemic and the city’s attractive climate, cost of living and cultural offerings.

One sunny saturday afternoon I was in St. Patrick’s, Valencia’s best Irish pub, and had brought along a friend (and also my Spanish teacher), Pedro, who, like me, had recently moved to the city – but instead of coming from London, he had moved from Cadiz in Andalucia. Whereas I was finding the cost of living cheap, to Pedro, Valencia was more expensive. [Before you judge me too quickly, I found myself in a Irish pub as I had wanted to watch an Irish rugby match and Pedro wanted to experience a raucous Irish pub atmosphere.]

Very soon we started talking with another Irishman, Paul, 30, from the Northside of Dublin. Paul had decided to move to Valencia as even with a good job the cost of living in Dublin was not sustainable. Why, he thought, should I put up with a non-existent life where nearly all his earnings were swallowed up by rent, when I could move with my Irish salary and live comfortably in a sunny and culturally rich city. No one disagreed.

Later that evening Pedro revealed to me that he was thinking of moving back home to live with his parents in Andalucia. Despite his best efforts, he couldn’t make his teacher wage stack up against the rising cost of living. A box room without daylight was all he could afford at that point.

One month later, Pedro was back in Cadiz and Paul was still enjoying life in Valencia. The linked nature of Europe’s housing markets had become visibily apparent, bonded by the freedom of remote working. Dublin’s rental crisis (as well as other cities’) could spill into Valencia.

Back to Barcelona

Back to Barcelona, and as we ventured further into Gracia, there was no let-up in the grafiti. However, something new caught my eye: tourists gleefully posing by the inscriptions thumbs up and ironic smiles, excited by the potential for an edgy insta shot. In a kafkaesque turn, instead of putting people off, the grafiti had itself become an attraction.

It partly demonstrates the gordian knot with which tourist dependent locations grapple: how to extricate yourself from an addictive dependency on the supposedly easy cash of foreign tourists? Like an oil rich country that grows fat on its natural resources, leaving other industries lying fallow, an alternative path becomes less and less attractive. For many governments, the natural equilibrium is then to double down on the tourist industry instead of trying to resurrect or develop other parts of the economy. The alternative path involves too much short-term pain, making it politically unviable.

When it comes down to it, the grafiti is not so much aimed at the tourists but really the local authorities that encourage tourism, whether its through loose regulation or financial incentives, and the businesses that exploit these conditions.

The tragedy is that with a greater focus on tourism, the place loses its identity and the reasons that people came in the first place start to fade away. It simply becomes like everywhere else. In Barcelona, a new word has been coined: parquetematización – the act of becoming a theme park. Barcelona is reduced to an imitation of itself.

What can you do?

The website “Responsible Travel” gives some tips on how to visit Barcelona more sustainably, such as going outside of the summer months, going midweek, staying for longer than a day and, when doing so, booking registered accommodation. [Alas our weekend stay in the middle of August broke their first two rules…]. The excellent resource for responsible travel provides advice not just for Barcelona but across the world.

An alternative option of course is to eschew Barcelona in favour of another Spanish city: Valencia is an excellent option (notwithstanding the story relayed above) with its unique culture, mediterranean seaside location, rich cuisine and history – but significantly cheaper and without the hordes of tourists. My blog contains numerous guides to Valencia, including tips on alternative things to see and to do, and how best to settle in if moving there..

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Spain

Long weekend in Bilbao

guggenheim museum bilbao in spain
Photo by David Vives on Pexels.com

Marcus

A post industrial ‘hole’ reborn as a cultural hub with world-famous art and architecture. Surrounded by beautiful countryside, the historic city centre boasts a buzzing and delectable gourmet food scene. The city is Basque but ever so European. In early September I enjoyed a long weekend in Bilbao with my Dad.

Day 1: a Basque welcome and pintxos in the old town

The airport bus (€3) whizzes you to the centre, past the shining Guggenheim, into the new town, El Ensanche. From our hotel (Barcelo Bilbao), which sits across the river Nervion, it’s a short stroll to the old town, Casco Viejo.

Before we get far we are enticed by La Tortilla, an unassuming bar beside the baroque ayuntamiento (city hall). Busy with smiling locals, we can’t resist a caña (the standard beer serving in Spain – usually less than a half a pint). Unlike the other Basques, we are served in larger glasses, the attentive barman assuming our northern European tastes correctly.

Upon hearing we’re Irish, a proud Basque woman inserts herself and insists on buying us another round, remarking on our shared history and nationhood. Unable to properly express our gratitude (‘gracias’ doesn’t cut it here..), she teaches us the Basque (or Euskera) for thank you:

Eskerrik asko

Later the old town, with its evocative narrow streets, buzzes with activity. Revellers congregate in and out of the multitude of bars, beer in one hand and a pintxo in the other. Bilbao is somewhere to stand, enjoying good company, excellent food and refreshing beer. 

We pop from bar to bar, getting a flavour of each place. We try Baster (rammed), Gure Toki (innovative and creative) and Bar Charli (excellent vegetarian options). All are excellent.

The heart of the pintxo scene is on Plaza Nuevo –  an attractive arcaded neoclassical square – breaking that rule that the more scenic the location the worse the food. 

Day 2: Guggenheim & funicular to Artxanda

After breakfast in Cafe Kovac, we stroll down the waterfront to the Guggenheim. Our cultural appetites are whetted by the myriad of sculptures along the way. Indeed, the city’s streets boast 150 different sculptures of varying styles. 

The Guggenheim shimmers in the sunlight. The wavy titanium structure designed by Frank Gehry was inaugurated in 1997 and is said to have sparked the city’s regeneration and emergence as a global centre for art. 

Maman spider Louise Bourgeois Guggenheim
Maman sculpted by Louise Bourgeois

On the first level, Richard Serra’s’ immersive steel structures have a dizzying effect. Upstairs, Norman Foster’s curated auto show makes even the least enthusiastic fall in love with the car. The exhibition artfully tells the story as to how the automobile has shaped our landscape and has exerted such an influence on the 20th century. My dad has a story that he can relate to each car on show.

Eschewing some of the more touristy options, lunch is across the road at Mazerreo, a local fish restaurant that faces the waterfront,  where we avail of their excellent and economical menu del dia.  Dishes include sardines, grilled sea bass and the highlight – mamitaka de pulpo, a traditional fish stew, first popularised on the fishing boats that scoured the Bay of Biscay – washed down with chilled Rioja.

In the afternoon, we cross Calatrava’s inviting curved footbridge to reach the funicular which ferries us up to the summit of Artxanda. Bilbao is steeply enclosed by mountains meaning that within moments of setting off, we’re enveloped in thick foliage and countryside. From the top, the views of the estuary and surrounding mountains are spectacular and give a sense of the city’s maritime past. Before descending, we polish off a basque cake in Restaurante Txakoli, a traditional basque building first built at the end of the 19th century as a refuge for mountaineers and shepherds.

Dinner is at Los Fueros in the old town near Plaza Nueva. Traditional dishes are served in a rustic and stylish setting with green mosaic tiles. Their pipparas – tempura style green peppers – are morish, and superbly complemented by our waiter’s recommended white wine – a local txakoli named Señorío de Otxaran. One to note down.

Day 3: Mercado Ribera & the museum quarter

We explore the evocative old town further, popping into the 14th century gothic cathedral, Bilbao’s oldest building, and later the riverside Mercado Ribera, which humms with activity. Aglow with natural light and art deco stained glass windows, upstairs is dedicated to fresh produce while downstairs is aflush with stylish pincho bars.

Ambling across the new town, designed and built in the latter half of the 19th century, we take in the the modernist architecture, most impressive is Txabarri’s Palace on the central Moyua square – built in 1894 to resemble the renaissance palaces found in Brugge and Antwerp. Today it houses Spain’s central government. A Spanish flag flutters above the door, the first one I’ve seen since arriving in the autonomous region.

Before continuing the tourist trail, we fuel up in Continental Cafe, a classy establishment just outside of the Park Dona Casilda, around which is the museum quarter. The city is quiet on this Saturday afternoon; many have sought to escape the unseasonal heat. The two locals beside me, more used to drizzly rain, lament the hot weather,

‘Over 30 degrees is simply not normal for this time of year’, they tell me.

The elegant victorian park was established in 1907 as an English style garden and is the heart of the museum quarter. First up, the Itsasmuseum, set amid the former shipyard, tells the story of Bilbao through its maritime past – from its establishment as a vital trading post for Castile to its role as a global shipbuilding hub. It doesnt disappoint.

Across the park, the Museo de Bellas Artes is top class. Once considered a location for Picasso’s Guernica, the gallery hosts a comprehensive and excellently curated collection of Basque, Spanish and European art. Most interesting is the western wing in which each room juxtaposes a Basque artist with a an artist of global renown. For example, San Sebastian’s Chillida face to face with the German renaissance’s Durer.

To end the night, we scoff more pintxos in the classy Casa Victor Montes on Plaza Nuevo. Perched on the marble top bar, with uniformed waiters ferrying morish bites to and fro, glinting glass hanging above us and surrounded by an impressive wine and whiskey collection, it’s a culinary and sensory delight.

Day 4: day-trip to San Sebastian

On Sundays the Plaza del Arenal across from the opulent baroque opera house, Teatro Arriaga, hosts a flower market and flea market. We build up an appetite as we potter around, later satiated by tostados with shredded tomato and serrano ham – making my Dad jealous as to how I like to start my day since moving to Spain.

Our plan is to spend the afternoon in San Sebastian, the resort town about 100km east towards France. We take the metro, designed by Norman Foster – a sleek marriage of function and form, to the bus station, which too is clean and aesthetically pleasing. The corrugated red edifice, which is modern, spacious and clean, contrasts with so many Spanish bus stations, most of which are grim. In general the investment in public transport in Bilbao, which is only a mid-sized city, puts other bigger cities – (e.g. Dublin) – to shame.

Unfortunately a Sunday trip to San Sebastian isn’t an original idea – the hourly buses are very popular, meaning we have to wait until later in the afternoon to secure seats. Booking in advance is advised.

San Sebastian is a delight. A perfect crescent bay backed by elegant tall sandstone buildings. It evokes the ‘golden age’ of tourism when overseas trips were the preserve of the aristocratic. Hotel Londres, a former palace that gleams on the promenade, encapsulates this period.

The town feels grander than Bilbao, not least due to the spectacular ornate golden lions that greet you as you cross the river to the old town. As we amble towards the beach, the streets are thronging – it’s an exuberant party atmosphere. Progressive political slogans hang across the buildings.

San Sebastian has the highest ratio of Michelin stars to population in Europe and our chosen restaurant – Xarma – is top quality. Intimate decor: hanging skiffs and light bulbs. We share an exquisite gazpacho and I devour a smoky steak accompanied by a roasted pepper. Our friendly waitress remarks that competition has driven up standards.  

Back in Bilboa, it’s the evocative and moorish influenced Cafe Urina, where we snack on succulent kebabs, and take advantage of the good beer selection. We finish our final night at Gin Fizz where the very friendly mixologist masterly prepares cocktails based on customer requests. The spirit collection is unrivalled.

Day 5: breakfast before parting ways

Before we go our separate ways, we breakfast in Asuaberri Obrador, a quality bakery close to where the airport bus departs. As I board my plane, Dad sends me a message from the craft-beer emporium, Basquery. A father and son weekend well spent.  

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Spain

Overnight trip to magical Cuenca

Cuenca vista hanging houses

Marcus

A Unesco world heritage sight and one of Spain’s most arresting cities. Alluring and spell-binding, it’s most famous for its casa colgadas, buildings that literally hang from the cliff, and its modern art scene first established in the 1960s. Relatively un-touristy given its sheer beauty, an overnight trip to magical Cuenca is highly recommended.

Slow train to Cuenca from Valencia

I take the slow train from Valencia Nord (c.4hr & €16.50), the majestic modernist train station. The journey is picturesque. Once out of the industrial outskirts, you’re enveloped in the rich and fertile orchards of the province: the garden of Valencia.  At a gentle pace, the train languidly rises until vast valleys open up.

Passing through mountainous terrain, we trundle through tunnel after tunnel, with magnificent rock faces and pines clinging to the slopes. Eventually we reach the Meseta, Spain’s central plateau, where sunflowers fields and almond groves are interspersed with rolling forested hills. At last Cuenca, on top of a natural pyramid, appears as if a mirage. Slow travel at its best.

The inimitable medieval old town

Making a quick getaway from the station in the relatively bland new town (a common occurrence in Spain), it’s a hike up to the old centre. Your exertions are rewarded with a complete medieval city: winding narrow cobbled streets, great town houses painted in bright pastels, tranquil plazas, and miradors that offer breathtaking views of the rugged countryside. 

The plaza mayor is the heart of old Cuenca. It’s the perfect place to sip an aperitif, watching the town come to life as locals emerge from siesta. From the terrace of Mesón, where uniformed waiters bustle, I admire the baroque town hall set above three arches, the colourful facades of the irregularly shaped tall houses, and the gothic cathedral that shines in the evening light. 

The gothic cathedral in the Plaza Mayor

The cathedral was built on the site of the former mosque when the city was recaptured by Alfonso VIII in 1177, whose statue stands proudly nearby (see my post on Spain’s five most influential wars, including the reconquista). The church is notable for being one of the first Spanish examples of gothic architecture when romanesque styles dominated. Upon its return to Christianity, Cuenca was designated as a royal town and thrived during the middle ages on the back of textile manufacturing.

I stay in the Hotel Leonor de Aquitania further up the hill beyond the plaza mayor, a renovated 18th century house, which offered a spacious and well-priced room. Dinner is at the Asador Maria Morena where they serve typical regional dishes (succulent lamb chops and the very popular queso frito with green pepper sauce), which is located on the top of the old town and offers panoramic views of the surrounding hills and valleys.

The hanging houses

The morning is the best time to appreciate the famous casa colgadas (hanging houses) when there are few tourists and the houses are lit by the rising sun. The first examples of these feats of architecture were built in the 15th century, with only three surviving today. The remaining houses jut out as if a natural extension of the cliff; the wooden balconies daringly thrust outward, as if seemingly suspended in the air. 

Anton van den Wyndaerde 1565 Cuenca
Anton van den Wyndaerde’s 1565 painting in Cuenca in which you can make out the hanging houses

The two best spots to view them are beyond the castle on the top of the hill and from the narrow (and hair-raising) footbridge, Puente San Pedro Bridge, that leads to the convent of the same name built in the 16th century for Dominicans.

To reach the hilltop view you pass the muscular archive building that dates from the 16th century, formerly the headquarters for the inquisition, and go through the arch of the castle ruins, originally a Moorish fortress.

The town is built above two intersecting gorges – the Huecar and the Jucar -surrounded by gorgeous countryside. The pine covered hills to either side are buttressed by solemn rounded cliffs, coloured ochre to grey, that remind me of the Easter Island monuments. Cuenca is a perfect base for hiking, with many different routes advertised in the town.

With spectacular scenery and evocative medieval architecture, it’s not hard to appreciate why artists were attracted here in the 1950s and 1960s, which gave rise to the proliferation of top quality galleries.

The art museums

The best way to spend an afternoon in Cuenca is to aimlessly wander, stumbling upon the superb art museums and encountering the many different view points. .

The most famous hanging house that houses the El Museo de Arte Abstracto

El Museo de Arte Abstracto is first up. Housed in the most iconic of the casa colgadas, it doesn’t disappoint. The brainchild of the artist Fernando Zobel, it’s hard to disagree with its description as the ‘most beautiful little museum in the world’, made by the founder of the Met. The thought provoking art is presented minimally and tastefully curated, including some of Zobel’s unique ink works. The building preserves original features, such as a spectacular coffered ceiling, original stone portal and pillars. There is an air of peace and reflection.

The Fundacion Antoinio Perez is more chaotic but rewarding. Sprawling, eclectic and often eccentric, the rambling gallery can at times be overwhelming, although the quality and variety is excellent. It’s better to concentrate on a handful of rooms rather than attempt to take it all in. Manolo Millare‘s disconcerting black and white works that burst from their canvases and Lucebert’s haunting illustrations were highlights.

Finally the Fundacion Antonio Saura in Casa Zavala, established in 2008, presents work from its namesake, Saura, one of Spain’s most famous post-war painters. All the museos were either free or very inexpensive, c. €2.

Lunch in the new town

Before I get the train back to Valencia, I stop off for a Menu del Dia at Meson Fernandez on Calle San Francisco, which buzzes with locals getting their lunchtime fill. An excellent option to fuel up before leaving magical Cuenca.

Categories
Spain Valencia

Essential tips on how to settle in to Valencia quickly

reflection of cityscape in sea at night
Photo by Pixabay on Pexels.com

Marcus

You’ve left your exorbitantly priced flat, waved goodbye to grey skies and rain, and are ready to perfect your Spanish. Or indeed whatever it was that prompted you to upsticks and emigrate to Valencia, that almost perfect Spanish city. Rest assured you’ve chosen well.

Spain’s third city, it’s not so small you get bored nor too big you get swallowed up in cool anonymity. Beaches, parks, culture and almost permanent sunshine: the quality of life is excellent. Here are my essential tips on how to settle in to Valencia quickly (some of which I wish I’d known sooner):

Sign up for the bike sharing scheme

It’s called Valenbisi. An annual subscription costs 35 euro and the first 30 minutes of your ride are free. The stations are commonplace and there’s a good availability of bikes. You can sign up and book each ride online. The bikes may weigh a tonne and don’t go very fast – the mode of transport is something between walking and a standard cycle – but it’s still worth it to take advantage of Valencia’s incredible cycling infrastructure at any time of day or night.

Get a Spanish sim card

A pre-paid sim card (prepago in spanish) only cost me 10 euro for the month and the registration took less than 5 minutes. My deal entitled me to 50gb of data, 500 minutes (EU and UK included), and unlimited messages, with no further commitment required. Sign up only required showing my passport. My provider (no commission…) Vodafone has excellent coverage across the city. Sims are easily found in any 2nd hand / repair phone shop, which are very common in La Roqueta, near Valencia Nord.

Familiarise yourself with Spanish opening hours

Most restaurants are closed between roughly 4pm and 8pm, the dreaded dead-hours. The majority of supermarkets are closed on Sundays.  To this day I sometimes still get caught out, so accustomed to the the constant convenience of London where I spent the previous 8 years. It’s smart to check online before venturing to your chosen restaurant / shop and to build up a repertoire of places with more flexible hours. One example is the famous Horno de Los Borrachos (the Drunks’ Oven), located by the Central Mercat that serves greasy food 24/7.

Participate in the events run by Valencia Language Exchange

Valencia Language Exchange runs intercambios (language exchanges) 5 nights a week in different venues across the city, including a free salsa class on Wednesdays and free entry to Umbracle on Saturdays. As well as brushing up on your Spanish, it’s a great opportunity to meet other emigrants and locals – whether your goal is to make friends or get more insider tips. The company also organises weekend excursions and longer trips that are excellent for seeing wider region and beyond. Cafe Berlin in Rusafa also hosts popular language exchanges on Monday and Wednesday evenings.

Sign up to Idealista to find accommodation

Your first days will most likely be in an AirBnB. Let them be the only ones. Better to sign up to Idealista, Spain’s most popular property market platform, to find your longer term home. With far more choice and more affordable pricing, your bank balance will thank you. It’s also better that new demand funnels into the longer term letting market as opposed to the short-term airbnb market. This will reduce the incentive for landlords to switch their property to a short-term let (whether legally or not), which reduces supply and forces up rent for locals. 

Torres de Quart
The Torres de Quart, the old western entrance to the city. You can still see the cannon holes from the Napoleanic wars

Get a SUMA 10 card to get the most out of the public transport system

The city is very well connected, with the metro, tram and an extensive bus network. The system is well integrated: a fare is valid for 90 minutes, allowing you to switch onto to different lines or modes. The best idea is to get a SUMA 10, which is a 10 journey pass. It can be loaded up to 30 journeys at a time and used by up to 15 people.

Lines 3 and 5 take you to and from the airport, while all the tram lines take you to the beach. Be aware of night-time hours: much of the transport stops after 11pm (hence it’s handy to have signed up to Valenbisi as a fallback).

Use the Santander work / cafe for remote working

If looking for a remote working space, the Santander work cafes are a good bet, especially while getting yourself settled. Entry is free, there is generally space, the internet is good and there’s on site coffee shop (with discounts for Santander bank account holders). The hours are 9am to 7pm. There are three in Valencia, including one right beside the Ayuntamiento. The cafes are also found in the other main cities in Spain.

Be aware of bad paella

No harm in including some foodie advice. Valencia may be the home of paella but the quality still varies. Only eat at somewhere that serves it at lunch – paella for dinner is only for tourists. The longer the wait the better too – it means the paella is freshly prepared. It’s also a good sign if the minimum portion size is for two people, again showing that they’re not serving from pre-prepared batches.

My favourite place by the beach is La Pepica, Hemingway’s former haunt. The best paella in the region is generally found in El Palmar by Albufera. Speaking of tourist tips, see my post on the best alternative things to see and do in Valencia.

Categories
Spain Valencia

La Tomatina: a guide to Spain’s messiest festival

Tomatina
La Tomatina

Marcus

A kaleidoscope of red. A cacophony of shouts, screams and thrills. The dense embrace of the crowd. Squelch, squelch, squelch amid a river of puree. Flying red objects. A pelt to the head. It’s La Tomatina.

Sensory overload. Clean (and smug) locals cheer from their balconies, their buildings sensibly covered in protective mesh. A brief respite as we cling to the sides of the narrow street while a truck carrying tomatoes squeezes by. A fresh batch is unceremoniously dumped. The truck moves on and the war (or la guerra) recommences.

A fleeting snapshot on the streets of Buñol on the last Wednesday of August during the Tomatina Festival, including my top tips (scroll to the end).

The La Tomatina festival

Celebrated annually, Tomatina is a glorified tomato fight that takes place in Buñol, a small and otherwise unremarkable town in Valencia province. Locals, Spaniards and people from around the world congregate to enjoy the absurdity. This year – 2022 – 14,000 people participated along with more than 130 tonnes of tomatoes.

One of the most famous Spanish fiestas, it ranks alongside Las Fallas in Valencia, San Fermin in Pamplona, San Juan in Menorca and Semana Santa in Seville.

My arrival to Buñol

My former Spanish language school, Taronja, which does excursions very well, organised a day-trip to the festival from Valencia. Dark and early, we bussed it to Buñol. Bleary eyed, we emerged in the outskirts of the town where disused factories pockmarked the landscape.

The school threw a pre-party brunch to prepare us for the ‘war’. A traditional Valencian almuerzo to line the stomach – rich tomato sauce with sausages served in a bocadillo – washed down with beers, tinto de verano and shots of cazalla, a Valencian anise liquor. The idea of a tomato war was starting to appeal.

Soon it’s time to march down to the streets. Progress is halted by chaotic queues to redeem our digital passes for the necessary wristbands. After a two year hiatus, the organisers seemed to be out of practice. Eventually through the gates, there is a palpable sense of excitement. A shared sense of participating in something unique. We were ready to go.

It kicks off at 10am, when a Spanish jamon (see my post on choosing ham in Spain), is speared on top of a greased pole in the town square. The goal is to be first to climb up and retrieve it. Buoyed on my screams and shouts from the crowd, while being drenched by water, locals scramble up the pole. When the ham is finally dislodged (usually at about 11), it signals the start of the madness – and very soon the tomato trucks roll in.

The history of La Tomatina

No one really knows the exact origin of the festival. The received wisdom is that it started in late August 1945 when, during a parade, some youths fell into an argument. Taking advantage of a nearby fruit and veg market stall, they started throwing fruit and vegetables at each other. Enjoying it so much, the next year more young people engaged in a pre-planned quarrel, this time bringing their own tomatoes. Year and year more people took part, establishing a tradition. 

Others have claimed that the festival stemmed from the town’s dislike of Franco. (See my post on Spain’s five most influential wars, including the Spanish Civil War in which Franco came to power).

“This village was against Franco,” said Miguel Sierra Galaraza, an amateur historian from Bunol, to the Wall Street Journal in 1995. “Throwing tomatoes at the priest and mayor was a way to protest against authority.”

In the early 1950s, the festival was banned by Franco due to the absence of any religious link. The tomato fights continued, however, leading to arrests. Following a widely supported protest from the town involving a coffin containing tomatoes, Franco relented and the festival was finally made official in 1957. Since then the fiesta has grown and grown in popularity.

In 2013 the town eventually introduced an entry fee to control the ever-growing demand after attendance grew to what was estimated at over 50,000. The festival was cancelled in 2020 and 2021 due to the pandemic.

The tomato war (la guerra)

The tomato fight commences. Hesitant at first, it soon becomes second nature throwing tomatoes at complete strangers. Alliances are forged, and quickly betrayed. It’s loud, packed and exuberant. The body numbs to the constant pelts.

As more and more tomatoes arrive, we and the streets get redder and redder. Anarchic.

The battle lasts about an hour and by then it’s more than enough.

La Tomatina
Tomatoes are thrown from the truck

Completely soaked and splattered we amble down to the river to wash off, where some kind residents hose us down. Once somewhat clean (a day later I discovered remnants of tomato in my ear…), we make our way to the square where under a canopy, there are bars, dj and a dancefloor. Reggaeton is blaring. It all feels bizarre yet intoxicating.  

Meanwhile the authorities hose down the streets, sweeping away the tomato mush. Buñol is known for having some of the cleanest and sparkling streets in Spain. The acid of the tomatoes counteracts against the grime.

By the late afternoon, it’s time to return to Valencia. On the bus, I reflect on the festival. Fun and unique, there was something wonderful about people from around the world gathering in one spot to madly throw tomatoes at one another. A shared experience that captures the eccentricity and magic of Spain.

Would I recommend it? Absolutely. Would I do it again? Probably not.

My tips for La Tomatina

  1. Bring and wear goggles to avoid blackeyes and the sting of the tomato acid.
  2. Don’t wear clothes you value. An old t-shirt and swimming attire is perfect. Permanent staining is inevitable.
  3. Be so careful for thieves. I witnessed a number of people complaining of thefts. Don’t leave your valuables out of sight (and better still avoid bringing them).
  4. Bring cash: 20 to 30 euro. Keep some cash in your back pocket for getting drink & food before and after the war. The majority of sellers didn’t accept card.
  5. Be thrifty in what packages you sign up for. Many offer paella and drinks for a hefty extra cost, which you’ll find cheaply in the town. The most important thing to book is your ticket and transport to and from the town.
  6. Get the wristband in advance, ideally before arriving in Bunol. I spent nearly an hour queuing to get mine in the morning.
  7. Squeeze the tomatoes before throwing them. This will lesson the sting of the hit.
  8. Closed shoes are crucial. Flip-flops and sandals will get stuck in the messy tomato puree.

Next year’s festival (2023) will take place on Wednesday the 30th of August.

Categories
Spain Valencia

Alternative things to see and do in Valencia

beige and white concrete buildings photography
Photo by Iván Rivero on Pexels.com

Marcus

You’ve done it all. The guidebook has been thoroughly thumbed. The delectable Central Mercat, the grand Lonja, historic El Carmen, Turia Park and Calatrava’s Ciudad de las Artes y Ciencias. You’ve gorged on Paella and imbibed Agua de Valencia. All ticked off. Wondering what else? Don’t worry – you’ve only scratched the surface. Here are some alternative things to see and do in Valencia:

Visit the Julio Gonzalez collection

Julio Gonzalez (1876 – 1942) was one of the leading sculptors of the 20th century. A close friend of Picasso’s, Gonzalez’s estate bequeathed a large chunk of his collection – almost 400 pieces – to the IVAM, Valencia’s modern art museum. Gonzalez’s arresting metal works give a physical three dimensional form to cubist expression and portray the horrors of the Spanish civil war and the rise of fascism. The museum also hosts interesting and varied temporary exhibitions.

julio rodriguez valencia IVAM
One of Julio Rodriguez’s pieces in IVAM

Do a language exchange

A language exchange is an excellent opportunity to meet other travellers, expats and locals as well as brush up on your language skills in a relaxed environment. Cafe Berlin, a trendy bar in Ruzafa, hosts exchanges on Monday and Wednesdays while Valencia Language Exchange organises events almost every day of the week, including a free salsa class on Wednesdays.

Take a trip to Sagunto

Sagunto is a little-known gem of a town only 30 minutes north of Valencia. It boasts a hill-top castle that dates back two millennia, a Roman amphitheatre that is still in use today, a charming medieval centre and a stately gothic palace. The golden beach – Port Sagunto – is only a very short bus ride away too. Get lines C5 or C6 from Valencia Nord. Check out my recent day-trip.

Relax in Patacona beach

Patacona is my favourite beach within the city environs. It’s the best option if you’re looking for more nature and want to get away from the crowds, but don’t have the time to venture out of Valencia. The 31 bus will drop you closeby or alternatively walk up from Playa Malvarosa, passing the Chiringuito Ocio where the promenade ends. With nothing but dunes and reeds to your back, relaxation awaits.

Admire the street art in El Carmen

The bohemian neighbourhood of El Carmen is famous for its striking street art [see my longer post]. Learn all about the history of the neighbourhood and its most famous artists & artwork on an engaging walking tour. Remember to take lots of photos as your favourite piece may not be there tomorrow.

street art el carmen
Street art in El Carmen

Travel back in time in the archaeology museum

In 138 BC the Romans founded Valencia. The museum takes you right back to the beginning. Located a stone’s throw from the Plaza de La Virgen, the museum is uniquely built above the archeological site, which means that exploring the museum feels like you’re going back in time to the heart of the ancient city, complete with the forum, senate, original roads and horreum (or public warehouse). Entrance cost is 2 euro.

Watch the water court, an ancient tradition

The tribunal de las aguas (or water court) meets outside the Door of the Apostles in the Plaza de la Virgen, every Thursday at midday. It maintains a thousand year tradition originally introduced by the Moors and formalised by Jaime I to discuss disputes relating to irrigation. They sit in a circle on wood and leather 17th century chairs, and make their rulings

Have further ideas for alternative things to see and do in Valencia? Leave a comment below.

Categories
Spain

Five wars that shaped Spain

Guernica spanish civil war
Destruction in Guernica after the air raid in 1937

Marcus

Travelling across Spain you can’t help but be struck by the marks, physical and cultural, left by the different armies and empires that have marched through the peninsula.  

Many of the churches started as Roman temples, were converted into mosques during the reign of the Moors, became Christian during the ‘Reconquista’ and are pockmarked by the scars of the Spanish Civil War. The Castellano language, spoken by 500 million people, derived from the common Latin dialect spoken by the Romans and is liberally peppered with Arabic influences.  

Pivotal in establishing the rise and fall of the different powers that have laid claim to modern day Spain are the numerous wars fought in and outside of the region. This post introduces five wars that shaped Spain and have had an irrevocable influence on modern-day history. 

The 2nd Punic War (218 – 201 BC) 

The 2nd Punic War was the second of a series of conflicts fought between Carthage and Rome vying for dominance over the Mediterranean. In 219 BC Carthage, under Hannibal, controlled the majority of the Iberian peninsula. Looking to further consolidate his power, Hannibal captured Saguntum, a pro-Roman city on the east-coast of Spain near modern day Valencia, sparking Rome to declare war in response. My day-trip to Sagunto is covered in this post.

map 2nd punic war
Map of Europe on the eve of the 2nd Punic War

With Roman dominance of the sea, Hannibal famously marched his army across the Alps, achieving a series of early victories and establishing control in vast parts of Italy. After Rome took drastic steps to raise a new army, the tide began to turn. The Romans gradually recaptured the rest of Italy and used their momentum to take the offensive in Iberia. At the Battle of Ilipa (near modern day Seville), Rome won a decisive victory, forever ending the Carthaginian presence in Iberia and beginning a Roman occupation that would last for the next 700 years. 

The Granada War (1482 – 1492 AD) 

For the early part of the 8th century to the end of the 15th century, the Moors had a significant presence in Iberia, reaching their heyday in the 10th century, controlling almost all of the peninsula, with its capital, Cordoba, Europe’s biggest and most cultured city. The Moors endowed Spain with palaces, mosques, universities, public baths and had a profound influence on culture, including language and food, (cultivating oranges for the first time on the continent – see my post on Agua de Valencia, the orange juice based cocktail).  

View of Granada from the Alhambra, the Muslim palace

The Reconquista – a series of campaigns by Christian kingdoms to recapture Muslim (or Moorish) territory – ended successfully with the fall of Granada. By the late 15th century, Granada was the last state under Moorish control, the other territories long since captured by the Christians. In 1492, following a series of military campaigns over the previous decade, the Catholic monarchs – Isabel and Fernando – triumphantly strode into the city, ending the last remnant of Islamic rule. With the peninsula secured, the monarchs turned the attention outward. 1492 was the same year that Christopher Columbus would set sail to the Americas. 

The War of the Spanish Succession (1701 – 1714 AD) 

In the 17th century Spain was a nation of contrasts. A vast empire with global clout at odds with a weak and backward economy run by a conservative church and idle nobility. In 1700, the sickly king, Carlos the 2nd, died without a direct heir, igniting the war of the Spanish Succession, contested by Felipe of the Bourbon dynasty and Charles of Habsburgs. Whoever held the throne would control Spain, parts of Italy and the low countries, the Philippines and chunks of the Americas. With the balance of power in Europe at risk, all of the main European powers were drawn into the conflict. 

battle vigo bay spanish succession
Battle of Vigo Bay during the War of the Spanish Succession from the Rijksmuseum, painted in 1705

After over a decade of battles across Europe and North America, the war was concluded with the Treaty of Utrecht, which would grant the Spanish throne to Felipe V (a direct ascendant of the current Spanish royal family), but Spain would have to give up its possessions in the Low Countries and Italy, and cede Gibraltar and Menorca to Britain, marking its ascension as a global power and Spain’s colonial peak.

The Spanish American War (1898 AD) 

For much of the 19th century Spain was deeply divided, backward and insular. Internal conflicts raged between liberals who sought democratic reforms and conservative forces representing the church and nobility that wanted to preserve the status quo. By the end of the century, Spain was weak and barely able to hold itself together, leaving its remaining oversea possessions vulnerable.  

spanish america war 1898 cuba
“The duty of the hour; – to save her not only from Spain, but from a worse fate”, designed by Louis Dalrymple

In the 1890s Cuba was agitating for independence from Spain. The United States spotting an opportunity to expand its influence, demanded Spanish withdrawal, leading to the Spanish declaring war in response. The ensuing conflict was very one-sided, with the Spanish unprepared to fight a modern navy. The peace treaty forced Spain to renounce its remaining overseas colonies – Guam, Puerto Rico, Cuba and the Philippines – and shocked the Spanish psyche, prompting a period of inward reflection and evaluation of Spanish society, later called the generation of 1898.

The Spanish Civil War (1936 – 1939 AD) 

The war was a long time coming, with society ruptured by gross inequalities and deep class divisions. As in the previous century, the first part of the 20th century saw Spain mired in a struggle between left and right, with neither able to maintain an upper hand.  

In 1936, conservative forces led by General Franco attempted a military coup against the democratically Republican government of Spain. This triggered a bloody civil war that would last for three years, with atrocities committed on both sides. The Nationalists, as Franco’s rebels called themselves, received extensive support from Fascist Italy and Nazi Germany, while the Republicans were initially aided by the Soviet Union and the International Brigades, volunteers from Europe and the United States.

After a war that split communities, friends and families and caused between 350,000 to 500,000 deaths, Franco marched in to Madrid in the Spring of 1939, declaring the conflict over and started a dictatorship that would last until 1975. 

Guernica spanish civil war
Destruction in Guernica after the air raid in 1937

The political and emotional reverberations transcended the national conflict. The Civil War was a precursor to World War 2, representing an international conflict between tyranny and democracy, fascism and freedom, and depending on the perspective, communism and civilization. For Germany and Italy, Spain was an opportunity to test new methods of tank and air warfare.  See my post on the air shelters in Valencia that inspired the El Refugio restaurant. 

Categories
Spain

How to choose Spanish ham

photo of a glass of wine beside jamon
Photo by ROMAN ODINTSOV on Pexels.com

Marcus

One of the best things about Spain is the ham. You find it everywhere – from your corner bar to high-end restaurants – and with everything: morning tostada, lunchtime bocadillo and served as tapas. It’s quintessential Spanish culture. 

With commonality comes diversity – there are so many varieties (and prices). A supermarket aisle might be wholly dedicated to different types of Spanish ham that to the naked eye will look much the same. It can be overwhelming.

This blog will de-mystify the differences so that you will know exactly how to choose Spanish ham:

What is Spanish ham?

The meat comes from the back leg of a pig. After the animal is slaughtered, the leg is stored in a barrel of salt to drain as much moisture as possible. The salt is then wiped cleaned and the leg is left to hang and cure. To serve, slices of ham are carved off the bone. 

To choose the ham, these are the most important questions to ask.

Is it Iberico or serrano? 

Iberico ham comes from the breed of pig unique to the Iberian peninsula. It’s a black pig that was originally bred from native boars and pigs imported by the Phoenicians, the region’s first colonisers.  

The humble iberian pig

Serrano is simply any ham that comes from a non-iberian pig, normally a white pig.

Examing the ham, you’ll see differences in the colour. Iberian ham tends to be a deeper red while serrano is pinkish. In general Iberian has a more intense flavour and is juicer due to the quality of the fat. Serrano is saltier.  

A handy trick to check the quality of the ham hanging in a bodega is to spot the colour of the hooves: if black, it’s Iberico; and it’s serrano if white or light brown. 

How was the pig fed?

The next question concerns the diet of the pig. The three main varietes are  

  • Bellota (100% acorn) 
  • Cebo de Campo (a mix of acorns and commercial feed)
  • Cebo (commerical feed)

Bellota is the highest quality as the pigs have been reared in open pasture foraging acorns, giving the meat a unique sweet taste. In addition, the effort of finding the acorns provides exercise to the pig, enabling a rich marbling to form.  The more cebo (or commercial feed) is used to replace natural acorns in the diet, the quality of the final product decreases. 

As a general rule, bellota and cebo de campo are classified as free-range unlike cebo fed pigs that are farmed intensively.

How long has it been cured?

The curing process is simple. All you need is salt, air and time, managing carefully the humidity and temperature. It’s time that dictates the final mark of quality.

When it comes to serrano, the varieties are 

  • De bodega– cured between 1 and 12 months 
  • Reserva – cured between 12 and 15 months 
  • Gran reserva– cured for longer than 15 months 

With iberico, the curing practices align with the diet. Iberica de bellota and cebo de campo need to be cured for at least three years. Cebo only needs to be cured for two years.  The longer the curing process, the richer and more intense the meat. 

Hanging hams in Granada {photo taken in August 2020]

How should you eat it?

With this guide you’ll have figured out that the best quality ham is iberico, acorn fed and cured for at least three years. This is the melt in the mouth magnificence you dream about. It can come at a price too: the most expensive legs go for about €4,000.

As such, my advice is to simply serve it on its own. Don’t waste it on a sandwich where the rich taste will be subsumed; it’s best solo as a starter or tapas plate. And when it comes to the really good stuff, serve it on a special occasion, such as a wedding or birthday. Another tip is to eat it at room temperature. This allows the meat to ‘sweat’, which melts the fat and maximises the flavour and aroma.

In contrast, serrano ham is more versatile. It’s your man for sandwiches and as an ingredient for other dishes, such as croquettas.

Categories
Spain Valencia

El Refugio restaurant: a Valencian ‘revolution’

el refugio restaurant valencia
The refugio opposite the restaurant

Marcus

Named for the Spanish civil war air shelter directly opposite, El Refugio restaurant offers innovative and cosmopolitan tapas in a warm and convivial atmosphere. Embedded in the bohemian and medieval barrio of El Carmen, El Refugio prides itself on ‘guarding against uniformity’ in its gastronomy. 

El Refugio restaurant

The menu is eclectic: prawn gyozas, sea bass ceviche, Vietnamese summer rolls, cochinita pibil, “Iberican” pastrami. Global dishes benefiting from Mediterranean fresh produce. We wanted it all. If the usual Spanish tapas is starting to feel repetitive, this is the place for you. 

We opted for duck and apple croquetas with mango sauce (creamy, moreish with zing), grilled aubergine drizzled with miso sauce and a dollop of cream fraiche on a bed of cous-cous (bursting with flavour: sweet, salty and meaty), and Argentinian skirt steak (tender and succulent) served with chimichurri and eye-catching Peruvian blue potatoes. Washed down with a Valencian red. Desert was a re-imagined tiramisu with apricot and dulce de leche. 

Everything was devoured in a lively and intimate ambience. The inimitable and playful proprietor buzzed around nurturing a friendly atmosphere. Everyone seemed to be smiling. Arresting art-work decorated the brick walls (the restaurant exhibits a new local artist periodically). The fun of the open-kitchen seeped across the tables. It’s one of my favourite restaurants in Valencia. 

We had four dishes (including one desert) and a bottle of wine. The total came to c. 60 euro. Almost all dishes on the menu are shareable. 

History of the Refugios

In 1936 as the Spanish Civil War raged, the capital of the 2nd Republic moved from Madrid to Valencia. The Mediterranean city quickly became a major target for bombing, a forerunner for the indiscriminate civilian targeting that would happen in London and Dresden within a few years. In an effort to protect the city’s populace, over 50 ‘refugios’, or bomb shelters, were constructed.

Today the surviving refugios with their iconic Art Deco lettering are a vivid symbol of the city’s resilience in adversity. One surviving shelter, on Calle de Alta, would become the restaurant’s inspiration, motivated by their very own “cooking revolution”.

el refugio restaurant valencia
The refugio opposite the restaurant

During the civil war, the city was bombed more than 400 times, often by the Italian air force, resulting in the deaths of 800 people, 3,000 injuries and the destruction of 900 buildings.

Further information

Address: Calle Alta 42, El Carmen
Opening times: Thursday to Saturday – 2pm – 4pm / 8.30pm – 11pm; Sundays – 2pm – 4pm.
Website: www.refugiorestaurante.com

Categories
Spain Valencia

Day trip to Sagunto

sagunto castle

Marcus

I’ve started this blog to share my experiences while travelling during my sabbatical. Focus on travel, food, drink, and history.

Sagunto, a little-known town about 30km outside of Valencia, played a pivotal role in Spanish and European history. It’s worth a visit. What follows is my account of my day trip to Sagunto.

The first thing you notice as your train rolls in is the ruinous castle that sits proudly on the hill-top looming over the town. Sprawling, dilapidated and imposing, it’s an image that stays with you. 

The Sagunto old town

A short stroll from the station brings you to the attractive old town. Here you’ll find a charming ayuntamiento, the gothic church of Santa Maria and the medieval Plaza Mayor with original roman pillars still supporting the colonnade.

Venturing further up the hill you pass the Jewish quarter, entered via an arched gateway with a sign that proclaims, “Portalet de la Juderia”. The neighbourhood preserves its original layout from medieval times. As in so many Spanish towns, the quarter represents a lasting physical memory of a community long since gone. 

gateway to jewish quarter in sagunto
Gateway to the Jewish quarter

As the path gets steeper the impressive Roman amphitheater jumps into view. Built into the hill and dating from the 1st century AD, the theatre is still used today. As I pass, men are ferrying in equipment for the night’s performance. 

Castillo De Sagunto

At last, you reach the castle. Occupied for over 2000 years, the seven different sections of the castle each speak of a different period in Sagunto and indeed Spain’s history. Iberians, Romans, Moors, and the Reconquistadors have all occupied this strategic site. In more recent history the Spanish Civil War saw the parapets used as machine gun posts. 

The castle provides spectacular views of the town, the coast and the surrounding Valencian countryside.

a view of Sagunto castle from the old town
A view of Sagunto castle from the old town

Hannibal’s brutal siege

Its most famous moment came in 219 BC when Hannibal captured the pro-Roman castle and sacked the city, prompting Rome to declare war. Hannibal, doubling down on his success, marched his army across the Alps and won several battles, giving him the control of much of Italy.

However the Romans eventually turned the tide, vanquishing the Carthaginians from Italy and later Iberia, leading to Roman hegemony in what is modern-day Spain and forever changing the peninsula.

The siege of Sagunto was brutal. The local population were all put to death refusing Hannibal’s offer of amnesty if they were “willing to depart …., unarmed, with two garments”. The whole city was pillaged and destroyed, the only physical survivor being the Temple to Diana, reportedly owing to Hannibal religiosity. The large foundations stones of the temple can be seen in the old town. 

How to get to Sagunto

The best option from Valencia is to take either lines C5 or C6 from Valencia Nord in the centre of the city. It costs 7.50 euro return and there are regular departures.