While Poblado and Laureles are the most popular neighbourhoods in Medellin for tourists, Prado is the most interesting and enigmatic. Here’s to 10 facts to enrich your visit to Prado, Medellin.
1. Prado is the only officially protected barrio in Medellin
Prado is located in Comuna 10 and it is the only barrio that has been declared a patrimonio cultural of the city, which enshrines its protection and conservation. In 2006, 261 buildings were designated as special cultural heritage sites.
2. Medellin’s elites wanted to create an exclusive zone inspired by Europe
The neighbourhood was imagined in the early 20th century when Medellin’s elites wanted to recreate an exclusive enclave in their own city.
They copied everything from Europe, but they copied it well, it must be said
Reinaldo Espitaletta, Medellin historian
3. It was modelled on a ‘garden city’ in Barranquilla
Prado’s construction began in 1926, spearheaded by the urbanist Ricardo Olano, who was inspired by the barrio of the same name in Barranquilla. Its design corresponds with the idea of the garden city, popular in the early part of the 20th century, which emphasised front gardens, wide pedestrian friendly streets and an abundance of plants and trees.
4. It was built on the La Polka finca
The barrio was built on the grounds of a grand finca, known as La Polka.
La casa de alcalde, one of the most emblematic buildings
5. The architecture is eclectic.
The architecture is eclectic, reflecting a multitude of styles, including North American and European. This type of architecture was popularised in the late 19th century and early 20th and is an amalgam of different elements from different styles, with the idea of creating something new.
6. The first mansion is now a church
On carrera 50 you’ll find the first mansion built in Prado. It was commissioned for Joaquin Cano, son-in-law to Ricardo Olano and son of Fidel Cano, the founder of ‘El Espectador’, Colombia’s oldest newspaper and former employer of Gabriel Garcia Marquez. The former home is now a church.
7. Casa Prado was home to one of Antioquia’s most important engineers
Casa Prado
A block northward up carrera 50 you’ll find the the mansion known as Casa Prado, which was the home of Juan De La Cruz Posada, one of the most important figures in the history of engineering in Antioquia. Juan oversaw the construction of the Antoquia railway, which was vital for the economic development of the region.
8. One home was built to look like a boat
Now home to Antioquia’s Doctor’s Association, ASMEDAS. It was constructed in 1949 for the Cohen family. The internal and external features were built to resemble a boat.
9. The Egyptian palace is a replica of an ancient temple
The Egyptian Palace is the most eye-catching building in Prado. It was the former home of Fernando Estrada, the founder of the Optica Santa Lucia, Medellin’s oldest opticians. The owner was fascinated by ancient Egyptian history and spiritualism. It is the one of the only authentic ancient Egyptian temple in the Americas. A guided tour costs 20,000 pesos.
10. The families started to leave in the 60s
At the start of the 1960s, Medellin grew rapidly as result of inward migration from campesinos fleeing the violence engulfing the country. Soon Prado was not the exclusive enclave it had been. Akin to white flight in the US, the owners abandoned their houses, moving to the more ‘peaceful’ neighbourhoods of Poblado and Laureles.
Further information:
You can reach Prado via the metro: the best stations are Prado or Hospital.
A great way to get to know the area is through a walking tour. Find out more from Alejandro.
A complaint Colombians commonly make about tourists is that their only reference to the country is Pablo Escobar and narco trafficking. What about the biodiversity, the music, dance, cuisine, amability, they might note.
Indeed, a surefire way to pierce a budding friendship with a Colombian is to respond with Escobar when they ask what you know about the country. The gripping but often factually lazy Narco netflix show made things worse.
Upon arriving to the country you quickly learn that the subject is taboo. Something not to bring up unless prompted. Any tentative enquiries heavily caveated.
The hush-hush imbues you with a guilty feeling of wanting to find more. What’s taboo is tempting.
After all Escobar was an intriguing character – someone whose face graced the cover of Forbes magazine. The 7th richest man in the world. The collection of hippos, football matches with professional footballers, piñatas overflowing with U.S dollars. The sheer audacity. His greed. The Robin Hood myth, the evil cloaked in charm.
A robin hood villain?
Indeed, his perception as a Robin Hood hero that took from the rich to give to the poor still persists. One afternoon after hopping into an Uber my grizzled driver turned to me and without prompting exclaimed, ‘Escobar was a hero’. I nodded along politely as the elderly driver expounded on his genius and all the good things he had done for the city. ‘A genius’, he told me, ‘and he sure did much more for us than the crowd in charge …’
Over his life Escobar funded many projects to aid the poor. This generosity helped propel him to win a congress seat in 1982.
However his philanthropic endeavours were more than offset by his blood-thirsty ruthlessness. As well as fellow rivals, his victims included government officials, police, and civilians. Most notoriously, the cartel placed a bomb aboard an aeroplane in an attempt to kill an alleged informant, resulting in the death of 110 people.
Botero’s portrayal of the assassination of Escobar. Photo taken in the Museo de Antioquia
Amid rising bloodshed, a massive manhunt sought his capture. On the same day in 1991 that the new Colombian constitution outlawed extradition, Escobar surrendered. He was jailed in a self-built luxurious prison known as La Catedral, where he could enjoy a private nightclub, sauna, waterfall, and football pitch as well as take advantage of the time’s latest technology, including telephones, computers and fax machines, to communicate with his crime empire.
Pablo Escobar’s death
Pablo Escobar died on a rooftop in the Los Olivos neighbourhood in Laureles, Medellin on December 2nd 1993.
His death came 16 months following his escape from from La Catedral. After he tortured and murdered two of his associates, the authorities wanted to incarcerate him in a more traditional prison, prompting his flight.
On December 2nd, the Colombian task force specifically created to find him intercepted a call he made to his son from the Los Olivos neighbourhood in Laureles. The call immediately identified his hiding place. Only hours before he was celebrating his 44th birthday, reputedly gorging on cake, wine, and marijuana.
The hunting party surrounded the house while others stormed through the door. Alerted, Escobar and his bodyguard stumbled out a back window onto an orange-tiled roof. They were met with a barrage of gunfire, and both fell from shots to their heads — Escobar with one that entered his right ear and killed him instantly.
Members of the task force pose in front of Escobar’s body
It is still debated as to who was responsible for the shot that killed Escobar – the task force claim it was their men, the rival vigilantes Los Pepes, led by Don Berna (and future instigator to a Medellin Christmas tradition), say they contributed , while Escobar’s family have insisted that he took his own life.
A visit to the house where Escobar died
By chance I discovered that the house was only a five minute walk from where I had been staying in Laureles, one of the more popular neighbourhoods for expats. In fact I had jogged past the house a number of times without knowing its significance.
Sensitive to the preference of the locals, I had been reluctant to participate in any narco-tourism. However, its close location, I felt, gave me an excuse…
It’s a quiet and leafy middle class neighbourhood. When I turn up, the streets are empty apart from the odd elderly person shuffling along. Away from the traffic you can hear the sound of the rushing river opposite the house.
There’s nothing in the vicinity to signal its significance. To be sure I check Google, which solemnly marks the locations as ‘casa donde se escondía Pablo Escobar’, the house where Escobar hid. I notice the orange tiled roof where Escobar is said to have scrambled across.
My photo of the house where Escobar hid
Its anonymity is the intencional there are no signs, no memorials, no kitschy museums. It’s simply a run-of-the mill Medellin suburban house. I sheepishly take a photo. An old man lounging on balcony of the adjacent building exchanges eye contact as if to shame me and would be tourists.
The next day, a Saturday morning, I turn up again. This time there’s already a yellow taxi. A Latin American man stands gleefully in front of the house, arms aloft, directing the taxi driver to take photo after photo. Another yellow taxi pulls up. A shier European hops out, not sure what he’s supposed to look at, his taxi driver points to the roof. I walk on.
Medellin today, a city transformed
Today the city once known as the ‘murder capital of the world’, Medellin, is much safer. The murder rate has plummeted, falling from 350 per 100,000 inhabitants in 1992 to 10.2 per 100,000 in 2022, placing it just above Florida (10.15) and just below Fresno in California (10.6) in the United States rankings.
It’s become a haven for back-packers and digital nomads, wanting to take advantage of the temperate climate. 1,4 million international tourists visited in the city in 2022. A tourist report showing the growth in popularity, noted that prior to 2010 there were only five hostels in the city catering to tourists – before the pandemic this number had risen to over 150.
Part of the improvement has been attributed to an unofficial agreement between drug traffickers and security services.
Peace is good for business, a drug trafficker told France 24, in a news article released in 2022. As long as they keep the streets peaceful, the police turn a blind eye to their lucrative illegal dealings, the gang-member said.
Another factor behind the improvement has been the employment of “urban acupuncture”, a tactic that employs urban design to solve social problems. In some of the deprived neighbourhoods that snake up the hills of Medellin, the authorities built cable cars to enable residents reach other parts of the city. The increased accessibility helped the locals find jobs, and feel more part of the city. Elsewhere, there was greater investment in the provision of basic services – particularly libraries and schools.
Paisas look out at the city from the cable car
Indeed a change to the Colombian constitution in 1991 (the same constitution that outlawed extradition) devolved more power to municipal authorities, which laid the groundwork for creative local governments to experiment in social initiatives. In 2013, Medellin was named the world’s most innovative city on the back of its civic spaces, libraries, and art galleries, as well as its infrastructure, including escalator and cable car to improve accessibility.
The relationship between Medellin and narco-traffic
Dealing with the narco-traffic past has been a tricky balancing act for Medellin. On one hand, it’s been important to look to the future and not to romanticise its tortured past, whereas on the other hand it’s vital to confront its history so that mistakes aren’t repeated. Education rather than ignorance. The results have been mixed.
The Museo Casa de la Memoria (the memory house museum) is an excellent example of how to confront past trauma and to commemorate victims. It doesn’t glorify the perpetrators but ensures those that paid with their lives have a legacy. It’s somewhere you could spend a whole day perusing all the extensively resources.
Generally, it’s rare that you come across Escobar’s image and while narco tours happen they are hush hush and tend to be run informally. In general, the tourist industry has not exploited the renown of Escobar and his cartel, despite an obvious financial incentive.
His famous finca, the Hacienda Napoles, was turned into a theme park (read about my visit here) and tour guides aren’t allowed to mention his name explicitly, using the ‘old owner’ as code. It contains a memorial museum that dramatically condemns his atrocities. However, despite these attempts, the theme park’s grandeur and popularity have become, at least indirectly, a tribute to the mob boss’s eccentricity.
In contrast to the house where he died, Pablo’s mansion in El Poblado was demolished in 2019. The mayor at the time said, ‘this symbol, which is a symbol of illegality, of evil, will be brought to the ground’. Burying its past and / or reinventing the future?
However, the site of his downfall survives, albeit in relative anonymity. A contradiction perhaps? Or maybe its survival serves as a reminder of his demise and the resilience of the city.
After spending four fantastic months in Colombia’s second city from October to the end of January, I learned a lot. Here’s what I wish I knew about Medellin sooner:
A typical address will look like this: Calle 8 # 43A – 89.
The first number indicates the street the address is on, the second indicates the cross street, and the third number indicates, in metres, how far the address is from the cross-street. The example above shows the address is on Calle 8, the cross street is Carrera 43A, from which the destination is 89 metres away. It’s very precise.
Drivers don’t respect zebra crossings
Traffic rules are advisory rather than mandatory. Nowhere is this more dangerous than when you attempt to negotiate a zebra crossing (marked sidewalk). Most of the time drivers ignore your right of way: the oncoming car is more likely to speed up than slowdown.
You’ll also notice that drivers will pass red-lights if they ‘perceive’ that there is no other traffic, much like how a cyclist might treat traffic lights in western Europe. Caution advised.
It has one of the best climates in the world.
Medellin lives up to its moniker as the city of eternal spring (La Ciudad de la Eterna Primavera). It’s consistently warm without getting too hot or humid, averaging 22.5 degrees across the year. Watch out for the rainy season – October to December – when an umbrella becomes essential.
Another advantage of living in such a mountainous region is that you can choose your climate depending on your preference. Increase your altitude if looking for cooler climes (for example Santa Elena on the outskirts of Medellin) or Santa Fe De Antioquia for something warmer (the former capital).
Avoid getting taxis at rush hour
It’s called the hora pico (the peak hour), although it lasts more than an hour, extending from 5pm to 8pm. The hour between 6pm to 7pm is the worst, when the roads come to a standstill.
The traffic can be so bad that I would travel early to avoid it, preferring to spend the extra time in a cafe or bar, rather than sit in traffic. Another option is to take the metro, which despite being full of people at rush hour, doesn’t suffer from delays:
The metro is very comprehensive and safe
The metro covers most of the city. It’s clean, reliable and affordable. The locals are justifiably proud (Bogota, with worse traffic, doesn’t have a metro). A single ticket, which allows you to switch to other lines, costs just under 3,000 pesos. Best to get a loadable metro card (costs 10,000 pesos) at one of the stations.
Stay in Laureles
Most travellers stay in El Poblado. It’s where you’ll find most of the nightlife, back-packing hostels and a great selection of restaurants and cafes. However, if looking for a more authentic, relaxed and affordable experience better to go for Laureles. It’s probably safer than Poblado and also counts on excellent restaurants and cafes
If looking for a Spanish school, use Mr. Fox school in the heart of Laureles. The teachers are great, it’s affordable and the flexible scheduling gives you plenty of time to fit in other activities, such as remote working / tourism.
Traditionally lunch is the most important meal whereas dinner tends to be more of a snack. Eat like a local by availing of the affordable menu del dia at lunchtime.
The menu can be found in the majority of the restaurants, normally a board outside will advertise that day’s specials. The fare varies but typically you’ll get a soup, a main meal – often rice, salad, and meat – often accompanied with beans and plantain – usually for about 15,000 pesos. Some places will offer coffee and a small desert too.
My favourite place was Salud Pan in Laureles, which offers healthy and delicious food, with great vegetarian options.
Avoid narco-traffic chat
To its credit for the most part Medellín does not try to exploit its murky past in narco-traffic and paramilitarism, despite an interest among tourists. Images of Pablo Escobar are rare and narco tours are hard to find.
In general it’s a taboo subject (see my post on how Medellin deals with its murky past), with locals preferring to look to the future and concentrate on the positive aspects of the city. If wanting to engage positively with the subject, a tour of Comuna 13 and a visit to the Museo Casa de la Memoria are good suggestions.
Paisa is a distinct identity.
People from Medellin will often describe themselves as Paisa first before Colombian. Paisas are fiercely proud of their identity, which includes an attachment to their land, family and cuisine. The Paisa region encompases the departments of Antioquia (Medellin’s department), Caldas, Risaralda and Quindío.
The collectivo to and from the airport is much cheaper than a taxi, costing 20,000 pesos as opposed to up to 100,000 pesos. It’s very safe and leaves regularly. On the way to the airport, the collectivo departs from near Exposiciones metro station and the San Diego Centro Comercial (mall). Buses also leave nearby for a cheaper cost (13,000 pesos).
At the airport, the collectivo departs right beside arrivals (simply ask if in doubt).
Don’t slam doors
This is an odd one but Colombians treat car doors very gently. My more assertive approach, which I’d employed all my life without comment, was perceived as aggressive and rude. Gently closing the door (or suavecito as one driver requested) is the way to go.
Embrace the street food
Empanadas, arepas, palitos de queso..the mouth waters. While the street food doesn’t have the renown of Peru’s or Mexico’s, it’s so rich and delicious. It’s economical and easy to find – every street will have stalls or holes in the walls, while most grocery shops will offer a selection. A perfect evening snack after you’ve filled up on a menu del dia at lunchtime.
Say gracias (instead of no gracias)
It’s inevitable that you will be approached by people trying to sell you all manner of things from lollypops (for some reason very popular) to full-day tours. This is especially the case if staying in a tourist spot such as El Poblado. At times it can get a little annoying. However the best response, assuming you’re not interested, is a simple “gracias” – firm but empathetic. Responding with “no gracias” is considered rude.
It’s easy to extend a tourist visa
Most tourist visas last for 90 days from the day of your arrival (marked in your passport). It’s easy to extend for another 90 days. It can be completed online and the cost is free. There’s a step by step guide provided by this blog. Best to do it about two weeks before your visa is due to expire.
Tinto means coffee (not red wine)
When you’re offered a tinto to accompany your breakfast arepa and eggs, it’s not the alcoholic variety. Instead it’s the Colombian term for coffee, usually the bland instant stuff that is most common (despite producing some of the world’s best coffee beans). See my post on visiting Colombia’s coffee region,
Do you have any further tips or questions? Post a comment below
Known as the “slave of the blacks”, San Pedro Claver was a revered yet polemical character who dedicated his life to the aid of slaves. A visit to his eponymous church and cloister in Cartagena is recommended.
Cartagena sweats history. It was founded in 1533 on the site of an indigenous settlement by Pedro de Heredia. With its strategic location, it quickly became the main Spanish port on the Caribbean coast and the most important gateway to South America, growing rich on the cargo, including humans, that passed through the city.
The old town, surrounded by thick walls to protect against invaders, is packed with preserved colonial churches, plazas and mansions. Ambling around the old town and soaking up its rich, and often bloody history, is the best way to appreciate the city. On one such meander, I stumbled upon San Pedro Claver church and cloister.
San Pedro Claver church and cloister
It was named after Pedro Claver, a Spanish Jesuit born monk that lived and died in the humble cloister. Beside it is an imposing baroque church, its facade built from golden coraline rock, and now the resting place for Claver’s bones.
The open square is busy with tourists and hawkers trying to attract their attention. Facing the church is an up-market colonial hotel, beside which are rusted iron sculptures, skeletal figures designed by Carmona, a local artist, depicting traditional life in Cartagena. The square is connected to Plaza de la Aduana, the city’s old slave market and where a statue of Christopher Columbus stands today.
The early life of Pedro Claver
Pedro Claver was born in Catalonia in 1580, just 70 years after King Ferdinand of Spain legitimised the culture of slavery by giving permission to directly import slaves from Africa.
Claver studied in Barcelona and Mallorca and entered the society of Jesus in 1602. 8 years later he moved to modern-day Colombia to continue his theological education and was ordained in 1616.
In Cartagena, the main centre of the slave trade in the new world, he met Jesuit Alonso de Sandoval, author of De instauranda Aethiopum salute, the earliest known book length study of African ethnicity and culture which included an expose on slavery. Against the custom, Alonso would baptise the slaves as they arrived at the port. Inspired by his colleague, Claver started doing the same.
The slave trade
By this time, the slave trade had been established for over a century. Mine owners considered indigenous people ill-suited to work in their mines and so met their labour requirements by importing people purchased in West Africa. Others were captured at random, especially able-bodied males and females deemed suitable.
A bronze statue of San Pedro Claver along with a representation of an evangelised slave stands outside the church, sculpted by Enrique Grau.
“The slave of the blacks”
The miserable conditions of the enslaved people aboard ships and in the pens of Cartagena prompted Pedro to declare himself “the slave of the blacks forever”. He dedicated his life to relieving their suffering.
Accompanied by interpreters and carrying food and medicines, he would board incoming slave ships and visit the pens, where he tended to the sick, comforted the distraught and terrified captives, and taught religion.
During the fallow season when slave ships were less common, Claver would visit, slaves on local plantations to encourage their faith and to ask their masters to treat them humanely. During these visits, he often refused the hospitality of the plantation owners, preferring to stay in the slave quarters.
Despite opposition from proponents of the lucrative trade, Pedro continued for 38 years, preaching against the ill-treatment and baptising an estimated 300,000 enslaved individuals.
A visit to San Pedro Claver church and cloister
The cloister is a three story building that surrounds a tranquil and jungle-like courtyard. It’s been turned into an eclectic museum, each room covering a different theme. One shows Haitian paintings and African masks, another is covered from wall to wall with pencil sketches of Afro faces, perhaps a tribute to the countless slaves that passed through the city and their descendents.
On the third level, there’s a thought-provoking exhibition dedicated to feminism, possibly inspired by the saint’s progressivism. Other rooms show religious iconography and paintings of every bishop the city has had (predominantly male and white – despite over 36% of the population being black – 2005 census). Paintings along the colonnade tell the story of Calver’s life. A highlight is the visit to the humble and dark cell where the saint lived and died.
The adjacent church, which can be admired from the choir stall, shows off impressive stained glass windows and a spectacular altar made of Italian marble. Below which you can find the saint’s remains, including his visible skull.
The bones of San Pedro Claver lie below the marble altar
Future legacy
Claver died in 1654 in the cloister, having been confined to his cell for the previous four years after contracting the plague. It’s said that when news of his death spread, such big crowds, many seeking relics, came to the church that soldiers had to be called to protect his body. The city authorities, who had considered him an annoyance for his advocacy, ordered a public funeral and buried him with pomp and ceremony.
In 1896, he was canonised by Pope Leo XIII, who proclaimed him patron of all Roman Catholic missions to African peoples. He is also the patron saint of those in slavery and the Republic of Colombia.
Pedro Claver is the saint that has most impressed me after the life of Christ.
Pope Leo XIII
In 2017, Pope Francis honoured the saint on his final day of his visit to Colombia.
However, the saint for some is still a divisive figure. Katie Grimes, author of Fugitive Saints: Catholicism and the Politics of Slavery, believes that the way the church celebrates Claver as “the saint of the slave trade” upholds racism more than it undermines it.
She argues that it gives the impression the church was historically fighting racist practices rather than actively participating in them. Instead of searching inside itself for racial heroes, Grimes believes, the church should celebrate the black fugitives who sought refuge outside of it.
Perhaps they should. Even still it’s no surprise that a church that today struggles for relevance continues to celebrate a figure that went against societal norms to support the downtrodden.
Further information
Entry costs 24,000 pesos for foreigners and 16,000 pesos for Colombians. You can hire a guide for 30,000 pesos. Opening hours are 10am – 5pm.
The address is Plaza de San Pedro Claver, Cra. 4 #30-01.
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Santa Fe de Antioquia is a captivating colonial town that makes a perfect day-trip from Medellin. It is the region’s oldest settlement, founded by Jorge Robledo in 1541 on the banks of the river Cauca, and was once the capital of Antioquia. It oozes history.
It’s said time stopped when the region’s capital shifted southward from Santa Fe to Medellin in 1826. Indeed the town centre looks much as it did in the 19th century. The town is characterised by narrow cobbled streets with single story white-washed houses, many of which front peaceful courtyards. Attractive carved woodwork adorns the doors and windows along with antioquian brickwork. There are historic churches and charming plazas.
The heart of the town is the Plaza Bolivia (formerly Plaza Mayor) with its impressive white cathedral. As I arrive in the later afternoon, it’s alive with activity despite the heat. With a considerably lower elevation (555m) to Medellin, Santa Fe can be hot and sticky.
The mainly Colombian tourists amble about and relax below the wooden balconies that surround the square, enjoying the piping vallenato music. I check into my hotel, Caseron del Parque, a mansion built in 1601 directly opposite the cathedral, where the Spanish governors used to stay.
The elegant baroque church of Santa Barbara
Two blocks away, I stumble upon the Iglesia de Santa Barbara, an elegant brick baroque church topped with swirling scrolls. Its three arched wooden doors are wide open, no doubt to help cool down the worshipers. Built by the Jesuits in the 18th century, the poet Julio Vives Guerra called it the ‘grandmother of Antioquian churches’.
A further block away, the streets are empty, allowing you to fully appreciate the preserved colonial architecture tranquilly, transporting you back in time.
Jorge Robledo, the founder of Santa Fe de Antioquia
Robledo was a Spanish conquistador that made his mark in Antioquia. Born of noble origin in Spain, he played a role in the conquest of modern day Guatemala and Peru as well as joining the hunt for the elusive El Dorado. In addition to establishing Santa Fe in 1541, Robledo was involved in the founding of Cali and Popayan, where he was later made mayor. See my post on the history and origin of modern day Colombia to find out more.
His end was not so glorious. He was sentenced to beheading by fellow conquistador, Sebastian de Belalcazar, following a dispute over control of the conquered territories. Yet, Robledo is still celebrated in the town: his statue, atop a plint buttressed by a two statuses – one representing a spanish-american woman and the other an indigenous woman – lies in Parque de La Chinca, itself named after the Virgin of Chiquinquirá, patron saint of Colombia.
Jorge Robledo flanked by two impressions of colonial era women
Robledo gives his name to the town’s best hotel, Mariscal Robledo, an attractive colonial style building also off Parque de la Chinca. The spacious rooms include antiques.
The Puente de Occidente
During the 19th century, Medellin and many parts of Antioquia were isolated and cut off from the sea by the Cauca river, limiting the opportunities to trade. The state government offered generous concessions in order to improve the infrastructure. One such result was the construction of the Puente de Occidente, originally the longest suspension bridge in the Americas when it was completed in 1895.
The local engineer in charge – Jose Maria Villa – earned his stripes as part of the team that designed the Brooklyn Bridge, which employed a similar system. In 1978 the bridge was declared a national monument. It’s a 45 minute, mainly uninteresting, walk from town so you’re better off paying for a 30,000 peso round trip. The driver will wait as you walk across.
View of the Puente de Occidente
Juan del Corral, the dictator of Antioquia
Santa Fe de Antioquia has a number of museums. Its best is the Museo Juan del Corral, a preserved colonial mansion on Calle de la Amargura. It’s a well curated collection of objects that show the history of the towns and region from the pre-colonial period up to and beyond Colombia’s independence. The house across the street was the home of the museum’s namesake Juan del Corral, a local hero.
Statue of Juan del Corral in the Plaza Bolivia
Juan del Corral is considered a Colombian patriot and was an important figure in the nation’s push for independence.
At the turn of the 19th century, discontent at Spanish rule grew stronger, particularly relating to new taxes. When Napoleon installed his own brother as the new Spanish king in 1808, many of the colonies refused to recognise the new ruler. As if like dominoes, Colombian regions declared their independence.
After an uprising in Bogota in 1810, del Corral was appointed as the Antioquia’s representative for a newly established autonomous body to replace Spanish rule. In 1813, when Antioquia feared an invasion from the Spanish, he was named the dictator of the free state of Antioquia to prepare the region’s defence. In the same year, del Corral proclaimed the declaration of independence to consolidate the state’s rupture from Spain:
That the State of Antioquia ignores Fernando VII as its king and any other authority that does not emanate directly from the People, or its Representatives, completely breaking the political union of dependency with the Metropolis and remaining forever separated from the Crown and Government of Spain
One of his most important contributions was his proposal of the liberation of children of slaves, which was passed by the Antioquian legislature two weeks after his death in 1814, aged 35.
The Fiesta de Los Diablitos
Unfortunately I was about a week too late for the town’s most popular festival, the Fiesta de los Diablitos (the party of the little devils). It occurs during the last week of each year, a tradition dating back to 1653 when the landowners wanted to give the slaves a day of rest. The slaves would dress up as Spaniards with colourful costumes, make-up and extravagant hair-styles (unfortunately I assume the devils refers to the slaves rather than the Spanish landowners).
The celebration continues today and it includes musical performances, dances, parades and a beauty contest (see my post on the origin of Miss Universe). The participants still dress up wearing clay masks that have been hand-painted by local artists.
How to get there
There are buses every hour from Medellin, departing from the Terminal del Norte. The journey lasts about an hour and a half and costs 14,000 pesos.
While Poblado and Laureles are the most popular neighbourhoods in Medellin for tourists, Prado is the most interesting and enigmatic. Here’s to 10 facts to enrich your visit to Prado, Medellin. 1. Prado is the only officially protected barrio in Medellin Prado is located in Comuna 10 and it is the only barrio that has… Read more: 10 facts about the Prado barrio in Medellin
A complaint Colombians commonly make about tourists is that their only reference to the country is Pablo Escobar and narco trafficking. What about the biodiversity, the music, dance, cuisine, amability, they might note. Indeed, a surefire way to pierce a budding friendship with a Colombian is to respond with Escobar when they ask what you… Read more: The house where Escobar died
After spending four fantastic months in Colombia’s second city from October to the end of January, I learned a lot. Here’s what I wish I knew about Medellin sooner: Reading addresses is easy A typical address will look like this: Calle 8 # 43A – 89. The first number indicates the street the address is… Read more: What I wish I knew about Medellin
Known as the “slave of the blacks”, San Pedro Claver was a revered yet polemical character who dedicated his life to the aid of slaves. A visit to his eponymous church and cloister in Cartagena is recommended. A historic colonial city Cartagena sweats history. It was founded in 1533 on the site of an indigenous… Read more: Slave of the blacks: a visit to San Pedro Claver church and cloister
In 1741, a vast British naval force died in a disastrous attack trying to capture Cartagena. They were repelled by a wily and mutilated Spanish naval commander, named Blas De Lezo, who managed to withstand the invasion with his much smaller force. This is the story of when the British tried to invade Colombia.
Fast forward almost 300 years and in 2014 the then Prince Charles (now King to the UK) visited Cartegena to unveil a granite plaque that acknowledged “the valour and suffering of all those who died in combat whilst seeking to take the city”.
The tribute appeared very close to a statue of Blas de Lezo, the Spanish hero of the battle, which characteristically shows him peg-legged, wielding a sword, and staring out with his one good eye.
Statue of de Lezo in Cartagena
The locals, who consider de Lezo a hero, reacted angrily to the plaque’s salute to an invading force.
“In London, why don’t they put up a tribute to the Nazi pilots that bombed the city during World War II?” asked Juan Carlos Gossaín, the governor, as reported by the New York Times.
El Universal, the local newspaper, speculated that de Lezo would rise from his grave if he knew of the plaque.
The back-garden of the Iberian Peninsula and Jenkin’s ear
During the age of discovery, the Spanish had the immense fortune of being the first to arrive in the Americas.
Despite the vast distances and limitations in technology, in less than a century, the new world had become the ‘back garden of the iberian peninsula’. A fabulous garden full of riches, gold, silver, tobacco and spices.
But at the same time, its sheer size made it difficult to defend and rival European powers wanted their piece of the cake.
One such example was in 1739 when Britain and Spain went to war in a dispute over market access and Spanish resentment of increasing British colonisation of North America.
The conflict was posthumously christened the War of Jenkins Ear, so called after Spanish coastguards cut off the ear of a British Captain, Robert Jenkins, accused of smuggling off the coast of Florida. “Go, and tell your King that I will do the same, if he dares to do the same”, Jenkins was told
The British public were outraged by this perceived insult to Britain’s honour and the incident was seen as a justification of war, or casus belli.
Cartegena was the most important port in Virreinato de Nueva Granada, the Spanish colonial territory that today makes up Colombia, Panama, Venezuela and Ecuador. The city was vital to the empire for the export of Bolivian silver to Spain and for the import of enslaved Africans. See my post on the history and origin of the Colombian people in which Cartegena played a vital role.
The British eyed up Cartegena as a means to effectively control entry and exit to South America.
The foiled attack on Cartagena
The Battle of Cartagena is little known in the UK. With so much colonial history, this particular embarrassment has mainly escaped the history books. (See my other post on Spain’s five most influential wars).
It was a sizable defeat. The British, led by Vice Admiral Edward Vernon, had 186 ships, including dozens of large warships, with about 23,600 sailors and soldiers, and 300 artilleries. Part of the contingent included American colonists, among which was George Washington’s older brother, Lawrence.
It was one of the largest fleets ever assembled, with 60 more ships than the famous Spanish Armada.
The Spanish had just six warships and about 4,000 men. They were led by De Lezo, a storied veteran who years before had lost his left leg and his left eye in battle. His right arm was virtually useless due to a previous wound.
The British enjoyed early success in the battle, chasing the Spanish from some forts protecting Cartagena’s harbour. But they were later held back by infighting between Vernon and his troop commander. Delay and bad weather set in. Dysentry, yellow fever and starvation soon ravaged the troops.
When the weakened British forces attacked the city’s most strategic fort, San Lazaro, where De Lezo’s statue now stands, they were unable to breach the walls, which had been recently fortified. At the mercy of the Spanish, the British were slaughtered and forced to depart in defeat.
The death toll was enormous, mostly from disease. Overall, the British lost between 9,500 and 11,500 men.
Nonetheless, Lawrence Washington went home full of admiration for Vernon and named his estate after him. It later became the home of his brother, George.
After news of the attack reached Britain, Robert Walpole, the de facto first ever prime minister, was forced to resign. The Spanish consolidated their hold over its colonies and shipping routes, while the hero of the hour, Blas de Lezo, died of illness weeks later.
A hammer to the plaque?
The then Prince Charles presenting the controversial plaque. credit: AFP
Back to 2014 and the unpopular plaque to the British soldiers.
Finally, the mayor of Cartagena bowed to pressure and asked the historical association responsible for its erection to remove it. But before they had a chance, it was smashed up by a local wielding a hammer, Senor Mr. Rendon, a retired electrical engineer, who soon became a local folk hero. A modern day de Lezo for some.
Rendon was later quoted as saying, “You don’t play around with history here, You’re not going to put up a plaque in New York in honour of the people who knocked down the twin towers, isn’t that right? For us it’s the same thing.”
Armenia, the capital of Quindio, is a perfect base to explore Colombia’s coffee region. Count on top-class coffee shops, traditional coffee towns, stunning hikes amid epic palm trees, iconic jeeps to ferry you around, and an up and coming city growing in confidence. Here are my tips on what to do in Armenia, Colombia.
The Museo or Oro (or Quimbaya Museum) presents a large collection of pre-colombian crafts, including almost 400 gold objects, mainly from the Quimbaya civilization. Some of the most valuable objects are the gold poporas, devices used for chewing coca, an act considered spiritual by the Quimbaya people. The museum is housed in a red-brick building, accompanied by a enchanting botanic garden, designed by RogelioSalmona, the renowned Colombian architect.
Learn more about the history and origin of the Colombian people here.
Potter aroundhistorical Salento
Founded in 1850, it is one of the oldest towns in Quindio. As one of Colombia’s most iconic colonial towns, tourists are enticed by the quaint streets, the paisa architecture and its tranquil setting amid green mountains and the unforgettable Valle de Cocora. A trip is not complete without pottering around Calle Real (carrera 6), an evocative and colourful street packed with charming and high end local craft shops. The end of the road leads up the Alto de La Cruz, a hill topped with a cross, which offers great views.
Regular colectivos set off from the transport terminal in the South West of the city will get you to Salento for about $5,000 COP.
Hike in the Valle de Cocora
The Valle de Cocora is one of the most striking landscapes in Colombia. A bucolic valley surrounded by imposing peaks, it’s most famous for the iconic wax palms (or palma de cera), the largest palms in the world that reach up to 60 metres tall. The misty conditions amid the spindly trees, give an other-worldly feel to the glen. The Valle de Cocora loop hike is the best way to appreciate the valley, stopping midway for refreshments at the humming-bird (colibri) retreat to appreciate the inimitable birds amid the tranquillity. Willys (WW2 style jeeps) go to and fro Salento; cost is about $4000 for the round-trip. See next tip.
Admiring the palms amid the fog
Ride in one of the Willys
A classic world war 2 jeep, Willys are one of the emblematic symbols of the Zona Cafetera. At first I couldn’t resist a chuckle at the name (willy is an informal name for a penis in British English), they are an important form of transportation in the region, ferrying everything from passengers, livestock, fruit, and of course coffee. The jeeps were army surplus models that first arrived in the area from the United States in 1950. In order to sell the vehicles to local farmers, a sales show ventured from town to town, showing off the jeep’s practicality, including driving up and down stairs and traversing obstacle courses set up in the plazas. The locals were hooked.
AppreciatecolourfulFilandia
Filandia is a traditional coffee town with well-preserved colonial architecture that is every bit as charming as its more famous neighbour, Salento, but not nearly as jammed with tourists. Go to the Colina Iluminada just outside town to take in the spectacular views, which include three different Colombian departments on a clear day. A colectivo from the transport terminal in Armenia will drop you off in the centre of town within about 40 minutes.
Enjoying a choclo arepa in Filandia
Savour thecoffees shops
Colombia traditionally has exported its best coffee, with the dregs left to the locals – this is starting to change. Armenia boasts a suite of top quality coffee shops that showcase the excellent coffee from the region. Ones to try are Cafe Quindio, Del Toro Cafe, Azahar Coffee – all with their own roasts. The passionate and knowledgeable staff are very happy to explain the process behind their own coffee.
Speaking of gastronomy, a shoutout to Anonima – a modern and welcoming restaurant that makes use of top-quality Colombian produce to re-interpret traditional dishes. Some of the best food I’ve tried in Colombia.
How to get there
The Aeropuerto Internacional El Eden is 15km southwest of Armenia town-centre and has connections to Bogota, Medellin and Panama city. Taxis to and from the airport cost about $35,000.
The bus transport terminal serves Bogota (8 hours), Medellin (6 hours) and Cali (3.5 hours). It also has minibusesses to Pereira and Manizales.
Colombia is the second most biologically diverse country in the world. It’s also the second most populous country in South America, with over 50 million inhabitants. It’s a nation with two oceans, the final northward thrust of the Andes, five contrasting deserts and a vast chunk of the Amazon jungle. Colombia is multiple countries in one, a nation bursting with diversity. This post examines the origin and history of the Colombian people.
The majority of Colombians are classified as mestizo or caucasian, accounting for 88% of the population [2018 census]. The first expeditions of the Spanish to the Atlantic coast date back to 1499 and the first settlements began to be established from 1509.
Santa Marta was founded in 1525 and has the distinction of being the second oldest surviving colonial settlement in South America. In 1533, further up the coast, Cartegena was founded where its strategic position and superior harbour led it to becoming the principal trade centre on the Colombian coast.
At the turn of the 16th century, the most dominant civilization in present day Colombia was the Muisca (also known as the Chibcha). The tribe didn’t have the renown of their neighbours, such as the Incas or the Mayans, and tended to live in small and scattered communities, surviving on agriculture and trade. The Chibchas were most prominent in present day Boyacá and Cundinamarca, near Bogota, which itself was named from the Muisca word.
Unlike traditional western civilisations, in Muisca society, the virginity of women was considered negatively, signifying that the woman possessed little value. The civilisation consumed an alcohol that was prepared from fermented maize, known as chicha, and smoked tobacco. Tribal leaders adorned their bodies with gemstones and gold.
It was the Muisca that inspired the the myth of El Dorado, a mysterious jungle kingdom rich in gold, and was part of the motivation for the rapid spread of the conquistadors southward, leading to the establishment of more cities across the territory and widespread intermixing. Long into the colonial period, the economy of the Viceroyalty of New Granada(the name given by the Spanish crown to the jurisdiction, corresponding to modern Colombia, Ecuador, Panama and Venezuela) depended almost entirely on gold.
The Colombian Ministry of Culture estimates that 10 million Colombians have roots from the Muisca. Today thousands still maintain their traditions.
Spanish (and Basque) immigration
Colombia has the distinction, compared to other South American countries, of primarily drawing its European immigrants from Spain and not receiving a broader spread from across Europe. The overwhelming majority of immigrants left from Spain and most waves arrived before the country’s independence in 1819.
Within Spain, the most common origin was from the South and from the Basque region. In Colombia you can find 3,500 surnames that have roots in Euskadi, the the Basque language. It’s estimated that almost 3 million Colombians have Basque roots. Gaviria and Uribe are examples of popular Basque surnames.
The majority of Basques settled in Antoquia, the mountainous region home to Medellin. A study in 1957 found that 15% of surnames in the Medellin phonebook were of Basque origin. Descendents of the Basques have been particularly successful in Colombia: the same study found that 25% of employers in the city had a Basque surname.
During the colonial period, there was a significant imbalance between the number of males and females that arrived to the shores. A study published in the journal of Human Genetics found that 90% of the paternal lineage found in Antoquia comes from Spain, whereas 90% of the maternal lineage derives from the native population. Mixing was the inevitable outcome.
Unlike other parts of the new world, such as the United States and Argentina, Colombia did not receive many immigrants from Europe and Asia during the second half of the 19th century and first part of the 20th century. An exception was the arrival of a large wave of predominantly Italian males. Famous Colombians, such as Shakira and the painter Botero have Italian roots.
The African influence and slavery
Africa has been another important part of Colombia’s genetic mix. African slaves arrived at a similar time to the European immigrants but in very different conditions. Slaves underpinned much of the economy, especially in agriculture and mining.
The Viceroyalty of New Granada received at least 250,000 slaves between the 16th and 19th century. Cartagena was the most important centre of trade of slaves in Latin America, from where they were distributed across the Spanish territories. [See my post on when the British tried to invade Cartagena in 1741]
Fugitive slaves formed the first ever free town in America in San Basilio del Palenque between the years 1570 and 1580. Today the inhabitants speak Criollo Palenquero, a mix of Spanish and different African languages.
Slavery was abolished in 1851, over 30 years after independence. However, today Colombia’s black population lags in educational achievement and access to basic services, such as the internet. According to the 2018 census, 30% of Afro-Colombians live in “multidimensional poverty,”
At least 10% of Colombians have African roots.
Geographic distribution
The African descendants account for a very high share of populations along the coast, both on the Pacific and the Atlantic. The indigenous populations are more common in the east rather than the west, where the landscape is given over to jungle. The centre of Colombia acts as an axis where you find the largest cities and the highest share of people with mestizo backgrounds.
A weekend exploring the Santorini inspired neighbourhood in Doradal, Antioquia, and the nearby Hacienda Napoles, a theme park cum zoo and formerly Pablo Escobar’s infamous finca.
The journey to Doradal
The North Terminal bus station in Medellin overwhelms. The concourse throbs with animation. Ticket booths stretch on endlessly, each run by different companies. 42 I count. Transoriente is the one we need, I eventually work out.
“A ticket to Doradal please?”
We’re told we can either run to the autopista (main road) to catch the departing bus. Or wait two hours. We take the leisurely approach. The station is labyrinthine like, eventually we find a crook on the third level to nurse a coffee.
The bus journey drags on. The winding mountainous terrain means only one lane on each side and before long we’re stuck behind a truck ferrying hay. We crawl from the cooler andean climes to stickier and hotter weather. The passing valleys and jungle like hills dense with forked trees soften the delay.
Doradal and Santorini
Dropped onto a dusty urban road, Doradal’s main thoroughfare. The heat contrasts with balmy Medellin. Nothing grecian. In fact, it’s typically Colombian. Topless locals buzz around their motorbikes. An almost empty restaurant sits across the road where the wafts from the basted rotisserie chickens mixes with petrol smells from the nearby garage. Trucks rumble by.
Turns out the Greek inspired village – Santorini – is a 5 minute climb up the hill. It’s a world away.
All of a sudden you’re immersed in cubic whites, transported across the Atlantic to the Aegean Sea. Potted geraniums adorn the cottages and bougainvillaea drapes across doorways. Marine blue shutters contrast against the whitewashed walls.
The open plaza is the heart of Santorini and boasts a greek orthodox style church. The maverick architect true to his inspiration. The warm climate adds to the mystique. Unfortunately there’s no beach nearby to cool you down. A Colombian flag flutters from the blue domed tower overlooking the plaza, incongruous to its surroundings.
Tourists – almost entirely Colombian – mill around determined to try to capture this novelty, taking turns to pose for photos. The classic collective action problem arises, the more photographers, the worse and less original the shot.
The eating options are paltry and unfortunately Greek cuisine is not part of the deal. No gyros or moussaka to be found. Dining in the terraza of Hotel Aldea at least allows you to soak up the atmosphere. I’m fleetingly brought back to my teenage family holiday to Greece. The rest of the evening is spent ambling along the winding cobblestone alleys.
Built in the beginning of the 1980s, the origin of ‘Santorini’ is a mystery. The rumour is that Pablo Escobar, with his ranch nearby, had a hand behind it. The audacity of the endeavour fits with his vanity.
Yes its kitsch and odd, but there’s something warming about people being able to experience a semi authentic greek island village in the heart of Colombia. I remember that most Colombians I’ve met haven’t had the opportunity to leave the country, let alone visit Greece.
Hacienda Napoles
The next day, it’s five minutes by car from Doradal to the Hacienda’s roadside entrance and a further five minutes inland across the rolling hills to the theme park’s official entrance.
Pablo Escobar’s most lavish finca, he acquired it in 1978 and quickly set to work, ostentatiously constructing, among other extravagances, seven swimming pools, 27 artificial lakes, a landing strip, a botanical garden, and an exotic zoo. It regularly hosted the cartel’s leaders for business and pleasure.
After the assassination of Rodrigo Lara Bonilla in 1984, Escobar was forced to flee Colombia and the hacienda began to fall into disrepair. Following a legal struggle with Escobar’s family after his death in 1993, it passed to state ownership, and was later converted into a theme park by a private company. The park in many ways is emblematic of the rise and fall of the drug-leader.
Hacienda Nápoles is so enormous and sprawling that you wouldn’t get far walking in the blazing heat. The advice to hire a guide to ferry us around the main sights in a golf-buggy is gratefully received.
As we trundle along the dirt-track, our guide begins to explain its chequered past. For so-called political reasons, he can’t directly use Escobar’s name. Reminiscent of Harry Potter’s, ‘he who must not be named’, my guide uses ‘el dueno antiguo’ (or previous owner) as code.
First stop is to see the iconic hippos. The only survivors from the original private zoo. They thrived on the myriad of lakes and plentiful grassland, the numbers multiplied so much that they are said to have colonised parts of the nearby Magdalena river and authorities are striving to control the population of the ‘invasive species’.
The remaining hippos, those still in the park at least, languidly bask in front of us, without care in the world. Afterwards, we see lions, tigers, pumas, elephants and more.
Pablo’s son was obsessed with dinosaurs as a child (a characteristic my childhood self happened to share with him). While my parents indulged me with furry toys and dinosaur encyclopaedias. Escobar built his son life size replicas that still stalk the grounds. We play around the renovated sculptures and explore the Jurassic theme park, built by the new owners, seemingly deciding to run with the original idea.
Next is the plaza de toros or bullring. Another of the outlandish constructions of the Escobar era. We’re told performers from around the world, including Julio Iglesias, would come to entertain Pablo and his guests. It’s since been turned into a tribute to all things related to Africa. A curious hotchpotch of exhibits, including tribal drawings dating from the colonial period and an eccentric list of Africa’s most famous people, at least, the exhibition is somewhat well-intentioned.
The final stop is the museo of memoria where dramatic condemnations of Escobar’s actions are interweaved with some of the few remaining antiques from his finca, such as old cars and the famous portal, on which is mounted a replica of the first plane used to smuggle cocaine. My guide tells me you’ve haven’t come to Hacienda Napoles if you don’t get a picture in front. I oblige.
As I smile in front of the camera, I can’t help but think Escobar would have been proud of what has come of this bizarre and extravagant theme park.
Further information:
Bus ticket from North Terminal in Medellin to Doradal (Transoriente): 34,000 CUP; 4 – 5 hours depending on traffic
Motor taxi to and from Hacienda Napoles: 15,000 – 20,000 CUP x2
Basic entrance ticket “salvaje” to Hacienda Naples: 54,500 CUP
While Poblado and Laureles are the most popular neighbourhoods in Medellin for tourists, Prado is the most interesting and enigmatic. Here’s to 10 facts to enrich your visit to Prado,… Read more: 10 facts about the Prado barrio in Medellin
A complaint Colombians commonly make about tourists is that their only reference to the country is Pablo Escobar and narco trafficking. What about the biodiversity, the music, dance, cuisine, amability,… Read more: The house where Escobar died
After spending four fantastic months in Colombia’s second city from October to the end of January, I learned a lot. Here’s what I wish I knew about Medellin sooner: Reading… Read more: What I wish I knew about Medellin
Santa Fe de Antioquia is a captivating colonial town that makes a perfect day-trip from Medellin. It is the region’s oldest settlement, founded by Jorge Robledo in 1541 on the… Read more: The history of Santa Fe de Antioquia
Miss Universe takes place on Saturday the 14th of January at 8pm (GMT -5) in New Orleans, the United States. It is one of the ‘big four’ beauty pageants, which… Read more: The history of Miss Universe
In 1741, a vast British naval force died in a disastrous attack trying to capture Cartagena. They were repelled by a wily and mutilated Spanish naval commander, named Blas De… Read more: When the British tried to invade Colombia
I’ve started this blog to share my experiences while travelling during my sabbatical. Focus on travel, food, drink, and history.
It started with a bang. Soon the valley and hills were alight. Colourful fireworks danced and weaved around the sky, shooting up from around the valley. Families and friends gathered on balconies to watch the show. Thunderous noises bellowed from all directions. A constant racket. Medellin was on fire, figuratively.
I had been warned in advance that the 30th would be different and it certainly was memorable.
Each year on the ultimate night of November, all the comunas of Medellin light up with fireworks to ring in December and the Christmas season, in a tradition known as La Alborada. It’s a custom that’s since spread to other Colombian cities.
Little did I know that its origins lie in the murky past of narco traffickers and paramilitaries. Medellin is a city in which history can feel like yesterday. A city that is modern and vibrant but with a foot dragging in the past.
Aqui la navidad no llega, estalla
Here Christmas doesn’t arrive, it explodes
MeDEllin SAYING
The origin story of the Alborada
At midnight on the 30th of November 2003 Medellin woke up in a panic. Initially the citizens didn’t know whether the flashes were fireworks or bullets. Had the city returned to violence? The authorities didn’t know what was going on either.
Ostensibly it was supposed to be a celebration of the laying down of arms by the paramilitaries – a show prepared and executed by the paramilitaries themselves. A spectacle to mark the end of abnormal times – when the state had to turn to private armies in order to do their dirty work. But in reality it was a dramatic display of power from Don Berna, the paramilitary leader, to show who really called the shots in the city.
Don Berna’s paramilitaries
At the turn of the 21st century, a paramilitary organisation named the Block Cacique Nutibara led by Don Berna was established to try to take back control of the north eastern communes in the city which were ridden by guerillas and narco traffickers.
In sweeping and bloody military operations, paramilitary groups – that is groups operating outside of the law – worked hand in hand with the military to exterminate the criminal enterprises that controlled vast swathes in the city. One such operation named Orion, which led to the pacification of Comuna 13, resulted in 88 deaths, 12 cases of torture and the disappearance of 92 people.
A year later, the paramilitary group, which maintained control of about 10 comunas, agreed to give up their arms as a means to transition to peacetime. Ostensibly to celebrate and mark the occasion, their leader, Don Berna, ordered the purchase of all the fireworks possible in the city. Five days later they met to light their loot in a number of the city’s comunas.
In fact the fireworks were a statement of the territories in which Don Berna would maintain his power and control. His organisation – the Nutibara – would function as a sweeping criminal enterprise focused on narco-trafficking. His control of the city was so complete that during his time the murder rate actually decreased.
The Don, probably the most renowned Medellin crime leader since Pablo Escobar, was later captured for violating the terms of his agreement and in 2008 he was extradited to the United States where he is serving a 31 year sentence for drug trafficking.
The celebration today
Although with Berna locked up thousands of miles away from the city, the tradition in Medellin has continued to grow in popularity, despite the authorities efforts to discourage it, and has become a firm fixture in the city’s Christmas calendar, as well as in other parts of Colombia.
A billboard tries to discourage participation in La Alborada: “what do you celebrate if others die?: fireworks can kill them!”
Many people I talked to resented the night – not due to its origin – in fact its background seemed to be little known – but due to the tremendous noise and its traumatic effect on animals, including cats and dogs, and birds that fall from the sky disorientated by the racket. Animal rights groups campaign every year against it.
The final words are left to Juan Mosquera Restrepo, journalist, scriptwriter and director, who eloquently lamented the celebration’s significance:
A sadness called Medellín has just attacked me. It was like this: detonations in the distance and I wonder, out loud, “is that gunpowder or a bullet?” Then I say to myself, in a low voice: “Damn it, that phrase is from here.” There are phrases that hurt to have learned in your city
Some of the information for this blog was sourced from an infobae article published in 2018.
While Poblado and Laureles are the most popular neighbourhoods in Medellin for tourists, Prado is the most interesting and enigmatic. Here’s to 10 facts to enrich your visit to Prado, Medellin. 1. Prado is the only officially protected barrio in Medellin Prado is located in Comuna 10 and it is… Read more: 10 facts about the Prado barrio in Medellin
A complaint Colombians commonly make about tourists is that their only reference to the country is Pablo Escobar and narco trafficking. What about the biodiversity, the music, dance, cuisine, amability, they might note. Indeed, a surefire way to pierce a budding friendship with a Colombian is to respond with Escobar… Read more: The house where Escobar died
After spending four fantastic months in Colombia’s second city from October to the end of January, I learned a lot. Here’s what I wish I knew about Medellin sooner: Reading addresses is easy A typical address will look like this: Calle 8 # 43A – 89. The first number indicates… Read more: What I wish I knew about Medellin
Known as the “slave of the blacks”, San Pedro Claver was a revered yet polemical character who dedicated his life to the aid of slaves. A visit to his eponymous church and cloister in Cartagena is recommended. A historic colonial city Cartagena sweats history. It was founded in 1533 on… Read more: Slave of the blacks: a visit to San Pedro Claver church and cloister
Santa Fe de Antioquia is a captivating colonial town that makes a perfect day-trip from Medellin. It is the region’s oldest settlement, founded by Jorge Robledo in 1541 on the banks of the river Cauca, and was once the capital of Antioquia. It oozes history. The history of Santa Fe de… Read more: The history of Santa Fe de Antioquia
Miss Universe takes place on Saturday the 14th of January at 8pm (GMT -5) in New Orleans, the United States. It is one of the ‘big four’ beauty pageants, which include Miss World, Miss Earth and Miss International. The contest is watched by an estimated half a billion people in… Read more: The history of Miss Universe
